Newbie here- we have free 2x2x 1/16 powder coated steel..

[ashleygries]

Is there anything on the trailer frame that would be suited for 2x2x 1/16" steel? We were planning on having ours custom built (for the Lil' Diner plan) out of 2x2x 1/4", but have a bunch of 1/16" for free... any ideas??? We aren't too concerned about weight, and want to put quality over cost (where we can), but I hate to see this tubing go to waste!
Thanks!

[Yota Bill]

If its 2"x2" box steel, it will be perfectly fine for the whole trailer, depending on design and how much weight you intend the frame to hold. I doubt you will be building a trailer that 2"x2"x1/16" box steel would be underrated for
If it is 2"x2"x1/16" angle steel, it is still perfectly fine for crossmembers and various other parts of the trailer, again depending on design, and how much weight you intend for it to hold.

2"x2"x1/4" is overkill, in my opinion. I built a 14.5' long, 7' wide utility trailer out of 2"x2"x1/8" angle (outer deck rails), 1.5"x1.5"x1/16" angle (crossmembers and 2 additional interior front to back rails) with a main frame under the deck (rails, ends, and toungue) made out of 1"x2"x1/8". I have had well over 3k lbs on it, and towed it from Lansing. MI to Oklahoma City and back, along with various trips all over this state, and have had zero issues with it.

With the right design, light guage sheetmetal can easily be used to build an entire trailer, with bends in the correct places and orientations, dimpled holes, etc.

[dh]

As stated above, 1/4'' is overkill. 1/16'' might work for cross members, but I'd go at least 1/8'' on the side rails. Also, what type of tongue are you going with? A single member tongu puts more stress on the front x members than an 'A' or a composite that has multiple contact points on the x members.

[Dale M.]

I would use 2x2x1/8 (.120 wall) for major outside framework and use the 2x2x1/16 for any cross struts and bracing and floor supports...

Only place I used 1/4 wall steel (1.5 x 1.5 x .250 ID) was in axle, and looking back on that it may have even been over kill...



Dale

[Artificer]

The 4'x8' bunny hauler was made with 2x2x16ga box tube. I bent up some 16ga C section cross members were I didn't have the box tube going across. (16" OC) I did use some 11ga plate reinforcements on the sides of the tube at a couple of joints.

The one caveat I would mention is that I built the floor and frame together with a glue/screw cleat for the walls. The walls get glued to the cleat, and the whole thing becomes one unit, like a unibody car. Frame without trailing arm suspension, wheels, hubs was only 60lbs. I was going for light weight.

I couldn't haul 1,000lbs on the bare trailer frame, but thats not what it was designed for. Once the body was on, I've hauled 1/4 ton of feed in it, without any flexing of the body/frame.

Michael

[madjack]

The 4'x8' bunny hauler was made with 2x2x16ga box tube. I bent up some 16ga C section cross members were I didn't have the box tube going across. (16" OC) I did use some 11ga plate reinforcements on the sides of the tube at a couple of joints.

The one caveat I would mention is that I built the floor and frame together with a glue/screw cleat for the walls. The walls get glued to the cleat, and the whole thing becomes one unit, like a unibody car. Frame without trailing arm suspension, wheels, hubs was only 60lbs. I was going for light weight.

I couldn't haul 1,000lbs on the bare trailer frame, but thats not what it was designed for. Once the body was on, I've hauled 1/4 ton of feed in it, without any flexing of the body/frame.

Michael

...that is what I would do...build the whole trailer outta the lightweight stuff...use the 1/4 stuff only for the tongue......
madjack

[atahoekid]

Just FYI. the pop up trailer frame that I bought to build my TD on uses 1/16th but it is a C -channel (i'm guessing 1 x 3). Hope that gives you an idea of whether it will work for you or not