Keeping lumber from warping

[atahoekid]

OK, I need a bit of basic help here.

I bought some 2x4x10's to create a support for my walls as I build them. I want the studs to create a flat surface as I build. Here's my problem .... 2 x 4's always seem to warp and torque. I bought the driest straightest premium doug fir studs I could find, but I have a feeling they are still going to twist. Any suggestions on preventing this twist?

As an afterthought, maybe I should have bought them from the lumberyard instead of the big orange... but that's hindsight.

A little help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[ssrjim]

Work fast

[petertl]

Yes, work fast. I don't think you would do any better at a lumber yard.
Lumber stinks these days.
Selecting straight boards with the straightest grain and little knots is the only thing to do.
When storing, lay on flat ground and keep dry.
Good luck.

[Miriam C.]

Clamp them together! I bought 8x's and cut them. Found out real quick that they twist. A few clamps solved the initial problem.

[DMcCam]

Miriam's got the right idea Mel, clamps will make them one big slab of wood. Also store them on a flat surface, no leaning or standing. You'll still probably need to plane them a bit for final fit. Our climate is so dry that until the wood catches up, they'll warp.

It's good the hear you're starting your build!!!

Cheers,

Dave

[bobhenry]

After building several hundred mini barns I finally learned to read the end grain of the lumber I was selecting for my trim boards and selected each board myself.(Drives the lumberyard help crazy but OH WELL).

As you look at the grain ....

A ~ is what you really want to see near flat horizontal parallel lines. This is as close to quarter sawn as you will find in todays market except in expensive hardwood blanks.

B ~ will with moisture turn into a horse shoe across the width of the board.

C ~ was cut from so small a tree it still thinks it's a tree, and will do all kinda of strange things. You have grain working against grain and is very likely to twist as well as bow along its length.

If you learn to read the lumber you can pick and choose the better boards when needed.



As to storage "flat on floor" is not a great idea unless you place uniform sized "stickers" every couple of feet to avoid wicking moisture from the floor (especially concrete). Cube them as deep as possible and a little weight is a good idea if it will be several weeks of storage.

[Deryk the Pirate]

Thats a Great tip Bob!

[atahoekid]

ssrjim and petertl: Yeah I wish I could work that fast but it's mainly a night and weekend project and really mostly weekend, so I guess I'm sorta outta luck there.

Miriam and Dave: I thought about clamping. I'll definitely do that.

Bob Henry: I wish I knew that before I went and bought those studs. That is great information. I try to learn something new everyday and this is it for today.

I just hate digging through the piles of crappy lumber to get to the good pieces. It just plain irritates me. The stuff on top is all the crap that no one else wanted so first you gotta unload that before you even begin to start looking at stuff that nobody else has already rejected. ,

[campmaster-k]

Yep you have to dig for good wood and ANY lumberyard.

[Corwin C]

I use big 4" wide ratchet tie down straps and make a "bunk" as close to square as I can. Don't let the straps get more than 6' apart and the closer to the ends the better. Wrench 'em down as tight as you can. Keep an eye on them ... if the whole bunk starts to twist, shuffle 1/2 the boards so they twist against each other.