Any Tool Experts Out There? (tee hee)

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

I am just beginning the careful dismantlement of Granny Tex’s homestead, a small four room farmhouse built from local Texas materials in the summer of 1919. The inside walls and ceilings are solidly decked with full 1x8 old growth Southern Pine boards, most of them being the 14-16 foot variety. The wall studs are true 2x4s turned flat-ways and randomly spaced on roughly 24â€

[Wolffarmer]

Just some smart a&&^%d ones. Like sell the house to some lumberjocks and walk away.

Man that sure would be some nice wood, if it could still be worked.

Good luck

Randy

[eamarquardt]

Perhaps a Sawzall with a grit blade or a fine tooth bi-metallic blade might work also. If you don't have a Sawzall perhaps you could borrow one. A bit more powerful than a multi tool.

Here are some options:

Diamond grit blade for Sawzall:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/inde ... Id=3685704

Carborundum grit blade for Sawzall

http://www.tools-plus.com/lenox-100rg.h ... m=LEN100RG

HF Quality blades (worth a try for the price)

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-Pack-All ... 1b2166c62d

Cheers,

Gus

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

I haven't been able to figure how to get a sawsall and blade into position to cut between the studs and wall boards. If you look head-on at the business end of the sawsall, the blade is such that you can't flush cut, where the multi-tool blade allows flush cutting.

The thought of hole cutting the nails and then plugging the holes has entered my mind, but that's my last resort.

[eamarquardt]

I haven't been able to figure how to get a sawsall and blade into position to cut between the studs and wall boards. If you look head-on at the business end of the sawsall, the blade is such that you can't flush cut, where the multi-tool blade allows flush cutting.

The thought of hole cutting the nails and then plugging the holes has entered my mind, but that's my last resort.

True, but with a long blade you might be able to "flex" the blade to do what you want.

Cheers

Gus

[CarlLaFong]

As a retired carpenter, I sawed through a gazillion nails with a Sawzall and metal cutting blades. You don't need anything special, either the fine tooth hacksaw style or the nail cutter, demolition blades. They're cheap and available. The blades for multi tools will put you in the poorhouse quick time

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

Just some smart a&&^%d ones. Like sell the house to some lumberjocks and walk away.

Man that sure would be some nice wood, if it could still be worked.

Good luck

Randy

I managed to get one four-foot board off the other day, and ran it through the planer just enough to shave off the darkness of the years. I sprayed three coats of gloss lacquer on it, with light sanding between coats.

Incredible...period.

[Woodstramp]

Have no tool suggestions above your own and those already offered...but, you mentioned that the lumber is extremely dry and brittle.

Maybe you could try another angle....buy or borrow a couple of room humidifiers, turn them on, seal the room and let wood soak up some long spent moisture. Might allow enough pliability to remove with standard wrecking bar? Then restack and allow to dry again.

Pine has very resonous summer wood layers but the spring wood is very porous, pithy and hygroscopic.

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

I will try the sawsall this weekend...but I shudder to think what the back side of those boards will look like.

Maybe...

Meanwhile, keep thinkin...

[eamarquardt]

I will try the sawsall this weekend...but I shudder to think what the back side of those boards will look like.

Maybe...

Meanwhile, keep thinkin...

Not great but you can plane them down or put the gouged up side "down" so it doesn't show.

Think positive.


Cheers,

Gus

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

Have no tool suggestions above your own and those already offered...but, you mentioned that the lumber is extremely dry and brittle.

Maybe you could try another angle....buy or borrow a couple of room humidifiers, turn them on, seal the room and let wood soak up some long spent moisture. Might allow enough pliability to remove with standard wrecking bar? Then restack and allow to dry again.

Pine has very resonous summer wood layers but the spring wood is very porous, pithy and hydroscopic.

That's interesting...I'm going to ponder that a while. and that made me wonder about my little hand-held steamer thing.

I knew you guys would have some good ideas...

[emiller]

Funny in the real old days they would burn down the building to retreive the nails for the next build.

[CliffinGA]

Use the sawzall with long blades, otherwise if you use the moisture method you will then have to let the wood dry back out and your not sure how long that will take.

Cliff

[madjack]

...wattascore...iff'n ya can salvage it...I'm sure granny would be proud if you could/would/did..[ersonally, I don't think the steamer method will work BUT, I dunno...I don't think the sawzall will give the results wanted which leaves the multi-tool as your best option...unfortunately, I have no blade recommendations for ya...good luck!!!!!!!!!!
madjack

[Miriam C.]

http://www.harborfreight.com/merchandis ... 67537.html
Usually less than $50 at Harbor Freight. They put them on sale for $30.

My only concern is you are making anything not decorative with lumber that is so dry and cracks easily! A table that is backed might be a better idea.