Any Tool Experts Out There? (tee hee)

[Corwin C]

About 18 seconds into this video. I've done this a whole lot. Their special blade isn't absolutely necessary, but they're nice. Where you're not working against concrete, a piece of metal flashing (duct tape the edges and use gloves) will prevent excessive scarring of the board you're working against by the tip of the blade. I would also suggest marking the boards with the nail ends in them some way so that someone doesn't try to cut them with a saw not knowing that they're in there. Wouldn't want someone to get hurt trying to re-saw them.

May you build something beautiful out of those boards ... man am I jealous!

[bobhenry]

No electricity required..........

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7SD?ie=UTF8&tag=acer-travelmate-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00002N7SD

I did a 2 year stint as a timber framer and there was a lot of wood to salvage and reclaim. This was my favorite tool for minimal damage reclaimation of native lumber. There is not a nail made it won't pull or tear in half. The beak is opened just enough to clear the head of the nail and the handle slides to act as a hammer and will drive the beak just below the nail head. As you rock over to start the pull the beak clamps down and grab the nail shank just below the head. If the wood is soft a small plate of gage/plate steel or a scrap of plywood placed under the lever arm will help to not mar the wood that would otherwise be dented by the arm. You should be able to salvage a 16 foot board
( approx 18 - 20 nails ) in 3 - 5 minutes.

Mine is 4 generations old and was great grampa George's and the brand new ones are virtually unchanged. You will never wear it out, that I will guarantee.

[sdakotadoug]

I second BobHenry's post. Bought an old one at auction works great except for the dimple left where the beak bites in. But if you going to plane them anyway, no probs. Doug

[PanelDeland]

Another option is to cut the board(the stud) thinly slice the edge it's nailed to.Then you should be able to pry the thin slice off.A nail set will knock the head and leftover shank back thru.

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

Another option is to cut the board(the stud) thinly slice the edge it's nailed to.Then you should be able to pry the thin slice off.A nail set will knock the head and leftover shank back thru.

That option crossed my mind, but the studs are turned flatways, and are a full 4 " thick.

Still...might not be a bad idea.

[Moho]

[url]http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200353570_200353570?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Power%20Tools-_-Power%20Tool%20Accessories-_-33007&ci_sku=33007&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}[/url]

[Tumbleweed_Tex]

BINGO...



Now THAT just might take the prize!!!

Lots of experimenting this weekend, and I might have to order one of those.

Thanks bunches !!!

(progress report on Monday)

[bobhenry]

How many time had I wished for just that tool ?



Genius sheer genius

[M B Hamilton]

While this forces you to work from the outside surface I can attest that these will extract just about any nail. The slide hammer does create a depression on either side of the nail head... but if you're going to resurface that may not be a problem.

http://www.coastaltool.com/hand_tools/c ... puller.htm

[chartle]

To the OP first are you using metal cutting blades in your multitool and not wood/plastic blades and are you getting the round blades and rotating the blade around so you use all the teeth?

I just think though you have found the limits to this tool. A multitool is one of those tools, like a dremel or a rotozip, that for certain operations no other tool works as good but its not really designed for long term mainline use.

Its like the Rotozip was supposed to replace all the saws in your tool box. It could rip, crosscut and make sliced bread. But it was mostly just a great tool for cutting holes for electrical boxes in drywall.

But any way I would use a blade like this.



Its called a Torch Blade and its designed for exactly what you are doing. Getting the special jig would help but if you get the long one not really necessary.

Once off use a nail set to hammer out the rest of the nail from behind.

I used one to salvage exterior trim from a house that parts of it dated back to the Revolutionary War.

[DrCrash]

Ive taken down a few out buildings and barns here . the tool I use the most is a matabo and cutting disk. Harbor freight sells a nice 7 inch tool for about 40 bucks and a 10 pack of blades run about 5 dollars. And it makes a clean cut , very thin without tearing up the wood. Slices thrugh nails like soft butter.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-ang ... 67648.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10 ... 47576.html[/url]

[WhitneyK]

My vote is for a 6-8" 10/14 (teeth per inch, it's a variable blade) reciprocating saw / blade. Stick with a good name like Milwalkee, Irwin, or uh, hmmm, can't think of what the plumbing store sells, but they are good also. As much as I like my DeWalt tools, the blades they offer aren't worth didlly. This blade is designed to cut metal impregnated (can I use this on this site?) wood. I use it for just about everything, wood, metal, cutting through nails so I can re-use boards, trimming trees,...

You can either lay it up against the back side of the wide boards and "bow" the blade to flatten it out or shave some into the 2x4 to save the wide boards.

Just my opinion, and we all know what those are like...

[Woodstramp]

How many time had I wished for just that tool ?



Genius sheer genius

Agreed, Bobhenry. Gotta have one of those. Also like that nail pincher bar that Moho posted. Never seen one before now....it's like a cat-paw on steroids.

[Roly Nelson]

Ditto on Bob Henry's nail puller. I`ve used one for over 60 years and it works great. It will even pull out a nail even if the nail has no head. Most guys that borrow it from me, end up pinching the flesh on their hand, because they fail to hold it farther down at the pinching claw. What a tool, get one, you'll see it is the answer to all of your removal problems.
Roly ~~