Room for wood stove?

[glenpinpat]

the type of stove you have is not for a trailer as per vozelgang's website. They state may not be sinstalled in mobile homes, manufactured homes, trailers or tents(no exceptions). You would have to move to a marine type stove as already mentioned. The problem there is that you would have to cut a big hole in your trailer for the stove pipe and this will cause leak problems while driving down the highway. You are much better of with a vented catalytic propane heater that can be pulled out of an rv for veryt few dollars or bought for about 250.00. Patrick

[Wolfscout]

the type of stove you have is not for a trailer as per vozelgang's website. They state may not be installed in mobile homes, manufactured homes, trailers or tents(no exceptions). You would have to move to a marine type stove as already mentioned. The problem there is that you would have to cut a big hole in your trailer for the stove pipe and this will cause leak problems while driving down the highway. You are much better of with a vented catalytic propane heater that can be pulled out of an rv for very few dollars or bought for about 250.00. Patrick

'
And there you go. I'd not do a wood stove. repeat post for me.

[eamarquardt]

On our 38 foot sloop there was a small (6" square by about 15" tall) wood/charcoal/coal burning heater. It was stainless steel and vented through a deck fitting that was insulated and sealed well enough that I never noted any water leaking in spite of some pretty wet sailing. It would heat up the interior of the boat TOASTY (although it was never that cold as the water temp here does't drop below 53f). I burned charcoal and coal in it with no smoke in the cabin and as it was well vented to the outside I never worried about CO.

As long as the stove is vented outside, and you crack a vent to allow outside air in for combustion I wouldn't be overly concerned. People get "Darwin awards" for having really leaky stoves or not properly venting them to the outside.

If you are worried, get a smoke detector/CO detector. Better a properly vented, IMHO, wood/coal/charcoal stove than an unvented catalytic heater.

Cheers,

Gus

[Kermit]

I'm not convinced that you're nuts. I've thought about a CC or canned ham with no electrics, using marine stuff. If it was me, with more than a little marine living experience, I'd go with a bulkhead stove, and solid fuel works great. Consider buying bagged CHUNK charcoal, not briquettes, for fuel. Whatever marine unit you decide to use, the fuel will be in small pieces, not "stovewood" or fireplace logs.

While thinking along this track, check out Dickinson (and other) bulkhead heaters that are either diesel or propane or CNG stoked. This is one of my favorite gas units:

http://www.suremarineservice.com/10000.aspx

An advantage to gas or diesel is that the "charley noble" (marinespeak for the stove's stack) is usually about 1" diameter as opposed to 3" or more for a solid fuel unit. If I was thinking of eventually installing it a cabin, I'd seriously consider diesel as the BTU provider.

If you have an electrical system, these are terrific, either diesel or kero. You can cook on 'em, and lower the lid and it becomes a circulating cabin heater.

http://www.suremarineservice.com/10000.aspx

I like Taylor's stuff too. Either diesel or paraffin (kerosene) with wee pressure tanks. Great little stoves with broilers or ovens.

http://www.taylorsheatersandcookers.co.uk/pch1.html

BTW, I hate propane because it's heavier than air and settles to the floor or into the bilge, where big booms can result. CNG goes up where it will escape through an open vent. Kerosene is harder to find than diesel in most places, but I prefer it to the smelll of diesel.

[ISeenBigFoot]

very nice comments, but money is a huge factor for me... had own construction business, was doing pretty well then as we all know, the bottom fell out, and have not been able to find work since. im almost 30 so i dont have money set aside so i am making do with what i have. as far the instructions for vozelgang, im well aware of what the cautions are, they have to cover any possible reason for being sued, im surprised they also didnt mention not putting it in a regular house as well. i know i wont be able to go away and leave fire burning, it will require constant attention, which shouldnt be hard since fire is mans second best friend. as far as roof leaks, i have beeen doing home repair for a while and believe that i should be able to handle a simple flue/chimney, especially since in florida we have the hurricane strength wwinds, which will exceed the 65 mph i manage to do on highway. my parents are RV' ers also and they are camping at pine mountain georgia, roosevelt state park over the xmas holidays, and they said it was $28 a night........ im going to be the walmart, lowes, home depot camper where its free. im also going to head west where there is plenty of BLM and other forests to camp in. ive had it with flat HOT fla. i need some mountains in my life. i will be posting entire build project from begining with pics so tune in next time...

[eamarquardt]

im also going to head west where there is plenty of BLM and other forests to camp in. ive had it with flat HOT fla.

Amen. My wife and I were not enthralled with Florida when I was stationed there. Hot, humid, bugs, and FLAT.

Plenty of great free places to camp here.

Cheers,

Gus

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I'm sure you can design to avoid the two big dangers - setting your trailer on fire and asphyxiation.

The big problem with burning wood is the lack of a THERMOSTAT!

It won't take much to move you from too cold to too hot and back again. The smaller the stove, the less thermal mass you have and the wider the swings if you don't watch it constantly.

A wood stove in a small trailer can easily double as a SAUNA if you're not careful.

That said, if you can get the wood to burn for free . . .

Good Luck!
Regards
John

[8ball_99]

lol sounds like you have your mind already made up.. Its not really that it can't be done. Its just there are better safer ways to heat a trailer..
Like others said it will be hard to keep the trailer at the right temp. With us the only time we are really in the trailer is to sleep or if the weather is really bad.. With a wood burning stove I don't think I'd sleep with it burning my self. Even if you feel its safe enough to do so. Chances are you will be waking up at 3am to and ice cold trailer. If you plan to stay in parking lots like walmart and homedepot ect.. Not sure how crazy they will be about a trailer with smoke rolling out the top.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

8ball

Parking on the Indian reservation also costs money, unless you belong to their tribe..

His CT will be called little Smoking Bear

In Calif if that CT smokes at Home Depot , he will have Swatt knocking on his door, they might even blow it up if no one opens the door. Also we have no burn days in the winter, $400+ fine from the EPA..

God bless little Smoking Bear

[Kermit]

I'm not convinced that you're nuts. I've thought about a CT or canned ham with no electrics, using marine stuff. If it was me, with more than a little marine living experience, I'd go with a bulkhead stove, and solid fuel works great. Consider buying bagged CHUNK charcoal, not briquettes, for fuel. Whatever marine unit you decide to use, the fuel will be in small pieces, not "stovewood" or fireplace logs.

While thinking along this track, check out Dickinson (and other) bulkhead heaters that are either diesel or propane or CNG stoked. This is one of my favorite gas units:

http://www.suremarineservice.com/10000.aspx

An advantage to gas or diesel is that the "charley noble" (marinespeak for the stove's stack) is usually about 1" diameter as opposed to 3" or more for a solid fuel unit. If I was thinking of eventually installing it a cabin, I'd seriously consider diesel as the BTU provider.
If you have an electrical system, these are terrific, either diesel or kero. You can cook on 'em, and lower the lid and it becomes a circulating cabin heater.

http://www.suremarineservice.com/10000.aspx

I like Taylor's stuff too. Either diesel or paraffin (kerosene) with wee pressure tanks. Great little stoves with broilers or ovens.

http://www.taylorsheatersandcookers.co.uk/pch1.html

BTW, I hate propane because it's heavier than air and settles to the floor or into the bilge, where big booms can result. CNG goes up where it will escape through an open vent. Kerosene is harder to find than diesel in most places, but I prefer it to the smell of diesel.

[Wolfscout]

I don't think anyone will get away with parking in a parking lot overnight and a fire place pipe blowing smoke out. Sounds like a LEOs ideal check investigate and harass .. then fine.

if you're going to haul it to a campsite.. then you'll have one huge gaping hole when you take it out to install in the cabin. I'd nix the whole idea of it for camper heat and buy a Little Buddy Mr Heater propane heater.
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Indoor-Safe/dp/B001CFPO8K Price: $74.35
* Indoor-safe portable propane heater for rooms up to 100 square feet
* Continuous odor-free heat for up to 5-1/2 hours; 45-degree heating angle
* Simple on/off buttons; uses 1-pound disposable propane cylinder (not included)
* Low-oxygen sensor and accidental tip-over switch with auto shut-off for safety
* Measures 12 by 10-1/2 by 10-1/2 inches; 1-year limited warranty

you can pick up or refill 1lb propane tanks most anywhere if you're not going to have electricity and use a ceramic heater in your camper.

[angib]

Any propane (or other LPG) internal heater will produce as much weight of water vapour as the weight of gas burnt. 1 pound of water vapour doesn't sound like much, but pour 1 pound of water over a towel hanging in the cabin and it sounds a lot more.

[eamarquardt]

* Indoor-safe portable propane heater for rooms up to 100 square feet

* Low-oxygen sensor and accidental tip-over switch with auto shut-off for safety
* Measures 12 by 10-1/2 by 10-1/2 inches; 1-year limited warranty

Yer betting your life with an unvented heater in a pretty much sealed small space.

Gus

[warnmar10]

* Indoor-safe portable propane heater for rooms up to 100 square feet

* Low-oxygen sensor and accidental tip-over switch with auto shut-off for safety
* Measures 12 by 10-1/2 by 10-1/2 inches; 1-year limited warranty

Yer betting your life with an unvented heater in a pretty much sealed small space.

Gus

Per the manufacturer of the Little Buddy model mentioned:
This heater requires a vent area of 4 square inches (example 2â€

[eamarquardt]

* Indoor-safe portable propane heater for rooms up to 100 square feet

* Low-oxygen sensor and accidental tip-over switch with auto shut-off for safety
* Measures 12 by 10-1/2 by 10-1/2 inches; 1-year limited warranty

Yer betting your life with an unvented heater in a pretty much sealed small space.

Gus

Per the manufacturer of the Little Buddy model mentioned:
This heater requires a vent area of 4 square inches (example 2â€