N00b with a "Harbor Freight Trailer" question

[NonProfit]

Hi, I'm new to the world of TD trailers...and have been checking out the Harbor Freight Trailer found in the Design Library link at the top of this page.
For those unaware, it's based on the 1947 'Trailer for Two' from Mechanix Illustrated using an easily sourced Harbor Freight trailer.

This looks like a great first build for me. But have a few questions. The introduction states:

Two modifications to the trailer are shown:
• the axle is relocated 4" to the rear of its original position;
• the wheels/tires are replaced with 205/74R14 which are a closer match to the 1947 originals.

Is anyone familiar with these trailers? Is relocating the axle a simple matter of loosening a few bolts or is welding involved? I searched the Harbor Freight sight and did not see any 14" wheels listed. Can they be purchased from HF? Does anyone recommend another supplier for wheels that fit?

Thanks!

[bobhenry]

Chubby is a very similar profile. He is 5 1/2 foot wide and tall and 10' nose to tail on a modified HF trailer. I state these facts only to remind you that you can go wheels under and build out and over by cantalivering the body beyond the frame. I did reinforce and extend the tongue ( pics in the album). The best part is no wheel spray all down the trailer sides

[StandUpGuy]

And Bob it looks like your wheels are the stock Harbor Freight trailer wheels right? And did you move your axle back?

[parnold]

If I remember correctly, you can move your axle by simply drilling new holes in the side rails. You better have some sharp drill bits handy. I did not relocate my axle, I do not have a heavy, elaborate galley, and pack carefully so as not to have too much tongue weight.

[bobhenry]

And Bob it looks like your wheels are the stock Harbor Freight trailer wheels right? And did you move your axle back?

I couldn't tell you !




The frame was mashed and I tossed all but the axle cradel and the tongue.

I placed the center line of the axle at 48" from rear for a 60/40 placement on my cobbled up frame.....

I later had to add 18" to the tongue length to get the handling I wanted.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

If I remember correctly, you can move your axle by simply drilling new holes in the side rails. You better have some sharp drill bits handy. I did not relocate my axle, I do not have a heavy, elaborate galley, and pack carefully so as not to have too much tongue weight.

I didn't move my axle on either of my builds, but I did extend the tongue on both. Neither moving the axle OR extending the tongue is absolutely necessary. If you don't move the axle back, you just have to make sure you don't have too LITTLE tongue weight when you pack for trips. Like Paul said, its easy enough to just pack the trailer to suit your needs.

[NonProfit]

Thanks for the input. I like the idea of changing drill bit sizes. I've also found http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200356494 it's more money, but is a foot wider. I wonder about the 45mph rating, though. (I don't drive real fast even when I'm not towing, but I don't want to get run over either.) Also, wondering about electric breaks and larger (14 or 15") rims. Anybody know of a moderate-cost trailer with those options?

[chartle]

This should help you with how to build the trailer so it doesn't fold and how to move the axle back.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_To_Bui ... er/Trailer

Also for those tires they must have sourced them from a different company. You don't have to use those tires. It appears its just for vintage looks.

Also my plan builds the floor out to 5 foot wide to accommodate a queen size mattress. You just have to build up the floor about 3 inches with some sort of frame.

[chartle]

Thanks for the input. I like the idea of changing drill bit sizes. I've also found http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200356494 it's more money, but is a foot wider. I wonder about the 45mph rating, though. (I don't drive real fast even when I'm not towing, but I don't want to get run over either.)

I asked about this also since Harbor Freight's are also listed for max 45 mph.

I kind of told its a CYA kind of thing and many tow there HF trailer over 55 and some even more.

[Treeview]

I've been using the for searching Craigslist:

http://www.searchtempest.com/

There are lots of 'real' trailers there instead of bolted together sheet metal units. Just tonight I found three former popup trailer frames with larger tires in the Austin area. Less than $350 each. Worth looking at I think.

You're going to need to replace the tires on the HF soon! They are really poor quality. Increasing the wheel/tire size is a good idea...or...get a 'real' trailer to start.

Tom

[NonProfit]

@Treeview, thanks for the searchtempest link.

Thanks to all for your input. I think I'd like a better trailer...just not sure which one.

[Indiana Dave]

I recently missed out on a trailer purchase.
I am now looking at the HF trailers since I have a store about 50 miles from my home.
In reading posts I seen that different models of HF trailers are used.
I was set on buying the:
1720lb 4x8 w/12" 5 lug wheels model 94564. $350.00

However I saw where some have used the 1195 4x8 foldable w/12" wheels model 90154. $300.00

On HF web site they also have a 950lb 4 x 8 w/8" wheels model 42709. $319.00

I guess one question is the weight of the TD on the trailer. I know this would very between widths and accesories. Has anyone checked to see how much theirs weighed?

Any opinions on HF trailer you used and how it did is appreciated.

Thank,
Indiana Dave

[afreegreek]

Thanks for the input. I like the idea of changing drill bit sizes. I've also found http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200356494 it's more money, but is a foot wider. I wonder about the 45mph rating, though. (I don't drive real fast even when I'm not towing, but I don't want to get run over either.)

I asked about this also since Harbor Freight's are also listed for max 45 mph.

I kind of told its a CYA kind of thing and many tow there HF trailer over 55 and some even more.

that speed rating has nothing to do with the frame, it's all about tires size and wheel bearings.. I wouldn't be surprised if my cordless drill uses bigger bearings than a HF trailer

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I was set on buying the:
1720lb 4x8 w/12" 5 lug wheels model 94564. $350.00

Hey Dave! I've used that trailer for both my builds. Find them when they're on sale, and take a 20% off coupon with you. You can get it for a little over $300. I logged about 4k miles in 2 years with my first trailer. The trailer probably weighed about 800-900lbs loaded with gear, and the one time I hit 85mph (not that I suggest this). I typically cruise around 65. I haven't finished the second teardrop yet, but its built on the same frame model as the first.

The trailers with larger wheels (12"+) are preferred over the 8" wheels because an 8" wheel spins on the bearings at a higher rate than the larger wheels would. No matter what trailer you go with, repack the wheel bearings with quality grease! And check your tires for any signs of wear or damage before each trip.

[NonProfit]

Any opinions on HF trailer you used and how it did is appreciated.

My initial plan was to go with a HF trailer. However, I've seen many people who feel the need to reinforce them. I think it makes much more sense to start my project with a better base.

I'm leaning toward http://www.advantagetrailer.com/p.373/o ... ailer.aspx At $1300, that's a lot more than what HF charges, but I hope if they keep the gate, floor and wheels that will bring my cost down. When I look at the total cost, the time involved, and the amount I hope to use the TD, I think it makes sense, for me, to get this, or at least one which is similar.

8" wheels are probably OK if you're picking up some lumber five miles away, but I hope to tug this thing across the country. I know the larger wheels will perform better...if only in my head.