Web Sites w/ Foam Info For Tools, Techniques, Sources Etc..

[atahoekid]

I used the Foam Coat with the Boost additive to see how well that stuck the cover materials to the foam. They all did real well with a pretty thin coat. Here's the pic


As I expected, there are no issues with the foam and all the materials adhered well to the foam with no turned up corners or anything like that.

I'm about to put on a second coat to see about getting a smoother finish. I also forgot to use the technique of tapping the object while it is drying to promote self leveling

[GPW]

WOW !!! Mel , that’s COOL !!! Looks like that might be “The Glueâ€

[hwff]

Chelsea,

From your base of knowledge, perhaps you can give us your opinion on the best application of your materials.

When we started making these "Foamies", our thought was the canvas and Titebond II glue would make a sock to give us some structural strength. Can we use your Foam Fusion and the mesh to do the same thing? Would it be better to skip the glue and use the Foam Coat to set the foam and mesh into a structural bond? Which additive is better for our application? Boost will ensure that the bond is strong and creates a tough coat, which is a desired trait when you consider the rocks and dings that a trailer is likely to be exposed to during it's lifetime. The Bounce will provide a more flexible coat, which is also desired when you consider the bouncing down the road a trailer must endure. Which is better for our application? Can you combine the two additives in the Foam Coat? Can we overlay one over the other? Which coat should be on top?

These are just a few of the questions I have... Bought your sample pack and have been playing with them, I'd like to get your thoughts. Thanks

Although the Foam Coat is lighter and stronger than concrete, it is a cement product. I really think that the Styroplast will be the ultimate foam encapsulate for your application. It is used on everything from RC airplanes to props and backdrops in amusement parks. It's super light and stronger and easier to apply than epoxy. If you use Mesh with Styroplast you will have a shell that is as strong as the plastics in most car bumpers. It's waterproof and resists most chemicals including gas. AND this stuff can be brushed on, so no fancy spray equipment is needed. You can see more in-depth info here:

http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/-024-GAL- ... allon.html

Please let me know if you have any other questions!

[atahoekid]

Chelsea,

One of the themes here is thrifty and at almost $90.00 per gallon for the Styroplast, that could be a deal breaker. I estimate that I would need a minimum of three gallons. However foam coat is $30.00 for a 25# box. Somewhat more reasonable. So I guess the question we as Foamie builders must ask ourselves is: "Does the weight/strength of Styroplast make it worth the price difference of the Foam Coat and any additives?"

Does the Foam Coat even work well enough to be considered as an alternative? If yes, given our application, which additive would you recommend? A thin coat of each maybe?

Thanks for your answers.

[bonnie]

I'm also looking at these products closely. I am concerned about the toxic nature of the styroplast. I'd end up spending a lot of money to buy the respirator equipment to apply it.

I think I'm leaning toward the bounce for flexibility. Still thinking things through, though.

[atahoekid]

I think I'm leaning toward the bounce for flexibility. Still thinking things through, though.

I'm thinking about them too! I'm leaning toward the "Boost" Maybe a thin coat of each. Which layer on top?????

I like the flexibility of the Boost but I also like the durability of the Bounce. Hopefully Chelsea, form the HWFF will post an answer here.

[hwff]

It would help to have some parameters to better answer your questions:

Is the weight very important?
Will the coating need to stick to anything besides foam and wood?
Will they be getting banged into a lot?
Any other characteristics you are looking for in a coating?
What is being used to coat the foamies now?

[eaglesdare]

It would help to have some parameters to better answer your questions:

Is the weight very important?
Will the coating need to stick to anything besides foam and wood?
Will they be getting banged into a lot
Any other characteristics you are looking for in a coating?
What is being used to coat the foamies now?

for me, weight if very important. one of the main reasons i built my foamie.
my foam is covered with titebond 2 glue, and covered in canvas.
there really shouldn't be too much banging, rocks and such from the roads, or humans banging it to check out the strenght.

[atahoekid]

It would help to have some parameters to better answer your questions:

Is the weight very important?
Will the coating need to stick to anything besides foam and wood?
Will they be getting banged into a lot?
Any other characteristics you are looking for in a coating?
What is being used to coat the foamies now?

Not to be contrary to what Louella posted, but here are my answers:

Is the weight very important? For some, yes it is. For me personally, no

Will the coating need to stick to anything besides foam and wood? Mostly foam and wood. Some are talking about aluminum in places but by far and away, foam and wood are the main components.

Will they be getting banged into a lot? Just normal banging into that any travel trailer might experience. I guess the biggest issue might be road debris such as rocks and the like. After awhile, whether you have a fiberglass trailer or aluminum sided trailer, it will experience damage depending on the size and velocity of object. I think we're just worried about the "normal" stuff.

Any other characteristics you are looking for in a coating? Just what you would want/expect from any outside skin of a trailer, things such as strength, durability, some flexibility, water tightness, holds up to the sun (good paint should take care of that issue). For myself and a few others, exterior finish (rough vs. smooth) is a consideration. For others, this is not an issue.

What is being used to coat the foamies now? Most, if not all, the Foamies currently under build or completed have used canvas with either Tite Bond II glue or exterior paint to provide adhesion.

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer our questions. I am very intrigued by the possibilities, I guess I just need some professional reassurance that what I am trying to do isn't outside of the design parameters and capabilities of the product.

[linuxmanxxx]

Reading and perusing over the application and nature of all the products, I think just using the foamcoat with the bounce additive directly on the foam would be sufficient to produce a hard yet flexible surface that is advertised to stick to just about anything. So 30 for the foamcoat 25 pound box and 70 for the gallon of bounce to make it the most flexible and just replace the water completely with it would be 100 for more than enough to cover the outside of the camper. I think using this outside and a panelling inside would provide mucho strength and very stylish looks inside and out. Just sand the outside smooth paint and you have an amazing looking exterior smooth no cloth weave or lines and just slap a simple external house latex on it for a good 15 yr coating that would be easy to replace on down the road.

Very interesting possibilities with this stuff.

[GPW]

How does it sand and re-finish ???

[bonnie]

according to what I read, and remember (take that with a grain of salt) it sands well, but depends on the thickness of the coat. Painting with standard exterior paint.

Foam coat and paint seems like a good option too. Just thinking out loud at this point.

[linuxmanxxx]

The pdf file on it says just sand prime and paint or if you get it smooth enough just paint if early on and if you wait to prime then paint it. Its cement based and the flex agent added makes it stronger at a thinner coating and stickier as well so it's basically sounding perfect for surfacing a foamy to be waterproof and rather strong and not overly expensive. Seems that other than a working time being pretty quick, it would be way less hassle than the canvas sizing and glue methods we've been concentrating on previously. Plus if you take the cost of the canvas and tb2 needed, the cost really is about even and a better finish in the end with probably less work.

I'm getting a design in my head for building one soon and I'm going to use probably this unless the zoo stuff comes in at a reasonable price which I'm doubting will happen. My idea is to just double up the 3/4" sheets for a 1.5" wall width and in between the inner sheets I will take a 1x2 glued in vertically just for stiffness and also to use tb3 on for glueing my inner panelling walls to for additional strength with the 3m glue on the foam. Planning on just rounding the edges like you did on yours Glen and then no trim would be needed as it will all be coated smoothly with the foamcoat/bounce. I'm going bounce because I think the other agent would just make it too brittle in case it got bumped or something struck it on the shell somewhere. You can't add the latex paint to prolong the pot life if you use an agent with it and I think the flexibility is a must have for the long term life of the coating.

[bonnie]

Your right, if you use paint you are encouraged not to use the additives. I think though, the paint would lend some flex and it could be done that way too. There's nothing saying you couldn't use the bounce/foam coat on high stress areas like the rock guard on front and back and use the other mix elsewhere.

Time will tell. I still haven't made up my mind. Don't need to either, as nothing is built yet.

[linuxmanxxx]

This is really catching my attention. Much cheaper than my aluminum siding would be much less trim on it and lighter and faster to produce. Soon as some funding is flowing I'm giving this a good try.