Skinning your TTT in epoxy and fiberglass

[Oldragbaggers]

Nathan and Larry,

Thanks for the info. I appreciate you taking the time to give me such detailed answers. You guys are the best.

I think I will go ahead and seal the ply prior to my layup, and Yes, I will be doing my fiberglass layup while the walls are on the bench.

Can't wait to post a picture of a finished wall next to my frame picture.

[NathanL]

I've found that small foam rollers work pretty good for coating the wood with epoxy. Can move it around and keep from putting on too much.

[Oldragbaggers]

I've found that small foam rollers work pretty good for coating the wood with epoxy. Can move it around and keep from putting on too much.

Absolutely Nathan!! That is my modus operandi also. It's neat, fast, and it doesn't pull the cloth all out of shape like a brush tends to do. You get a much more even coat as well. I'll roll out a section 2'x4' or so, squeegee it out and then move on to the next section. I get the little disposable paint trays for those small rollers and then when I'm done I just toss everything except the handle.

[aggie79]

If you don't mind, I'd like to continue this discussion.

Given that most of us are weekend builders, my question is in regard to amine blush and preparation for subsequent steps in epoxying. I see the real possibility that on one weekend, you would coat the wood/plywood surface with epoxy (before applying glass). The next weekend you would apply the fiberglass. The following weekend you would fill the weave.

Given the time between steps, what preparation should be done between the steps? I'm assuming that you should wash off the amine blush and then lightly sand (grit?) prior to the next coat of epoxy. Is this correct? I have noticed that some manufacturers have a "no blush" hardener. Are these truly "no blush" or are they really minimal blush meaning that you should prep between coats if the prior coat has cured.

The first time I used epoxy was on my build, so my experience is minimal. Thank you for your insight and help.

[Oldragbaggers]

Good morning Tom! Nice to see you on this thread!!

Amine blush, if you have it, washes off easily enough with plain soap and water. If your epoxy has fully cured (over 24 hours) then you will need to give it a light sanding. Your next coat will be forming a physical bond and will need a bit of a rough surface to "bite" into. If it has been less than 24 hours (even that is pushing it, less than 12 is better) and your layup has not fully cured, you can layup over it without sanding and the 2 layers will form a chemical bond.

I just received my first shipment of Raka blush free epoxy yesterday and am really anxious to see how it works. I have always used either West System or Epiglass in the past and both blushed. Others who use the blush free epoxies seem to swear by them though. I will certainly post my experience here after I have used it, hopefully this weekend if it doesn't rain.

[aggie79]

Good morning Tom! Nice to see you on this thread!!

Amine blush, if you have it, washes off easily enough with plain soap and water. If your epoxy has fully cured (over 24 hours) then you will need to give it a light sanding. Your next coat will be forming a physical bond and will need a bit of a rough surface to "bite" into. If it has been less than 24 hours (even that is pushing it, less than 12 is better) and your layup has not fully cured, you can layup over it without sanding and the 2 layers will form a chemical bond.

I just received my first shipment of Raka blush free epoxy yesterday and am really anxious to see how it works. I have always used either West System or Epiglass in the past and both blushed. Others who use the blush free epoxies seem to swear by them though. I will certainly post my experience here after I have used it, hopefully this weekend if it doesn't rain.

Hi Becky,

Thank you for the quick and thorough response. I look forward to your experience with the Raka blush free epoxy.

I used the Raka blush free epoxy on the shell of my teardrop. I applied two coats of it. After the first coat was applied, there was a time lapse of 2-3 weeks before I applied the second coat. (For many weekends, I only had 2-3 hours per weekend to work on my teardrop.) Not that I would know what it is, I didn't detect any blush with the first coat. So, the only prep I did for the second coat was a light sanding with 120 grit in my ROS. In the several months that elapsed between applying the epoxy and applying the aluminum, I did not notice any peeling or flaking in the epoxy.

Take care,
Tom

[Larry C]

Raka's no blush formula is truly non blush. I have been using it for more than 10 years. I always try to do my seal coat on a Friday evening. I do a light sanding, and wet-out the glass Saturday morning. Usually by late Saturday afternoon I can apply my one and only fill coat. Less than 24 hours and it's all done....

[Oldragbaggers]

Good suggestion Larry!!

[SteveW]

I don't think I'll be glassing my first TD, mainly because I have no experience with it and we'd like to have it campable sooner than later. However, I really like the idea and would love to do one in the future. Any suggestions for learning to glass? Where to get a good basic introduction, what's a good starter project, etc?

[Larry C]

I don't think I'll be glassing my first TD, mainly because I have no experience with it and we'd like to have it campable sooner than later. However, I really like the idea and would love to do one in the future. Any suggestions for learning to glass? Where to get a good basic introduction, what's a good starter project, etc?

Steve,
A good resource for learning to work with epoxy/glass is:http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/ Using fiberglass is like laying concrete blocks or wallpapering. Your apprehensive at first, but once you do it few times you will find it's just following directions, and overcoming mistakes. If you want a learning project that is not too big, how about a tongue box for your teardrop. You can incorporate thin plywood, and or foam and cover it with glass.

[SteveW]

Thanks, Larry. Went ahead and bookmarked that link. And great idea about the tongue box!

[aggie79]

Steve,

The first time I used epoxy was in my build. I'm still learning, so I can't give you any advice other than what was passed along to me that I stupidly didn't follow. The advice was, when beginning to apply the epoxy, think of the amount you need to mix, and then mix only half of that amount.

Take care,
Tom

[aggie79]

In a continuation of this thread, how does everyone measure your epoxy components prior to mixing? Do you use the graduated mixing cups or pumps?

[Larry C]

In a continuation of this thread, how does everyone measure your epoxy components prior to mixing? Do you use the graduated mixing cups or pumps?

Tom,
I must reiterate... When it comes to epoxy and glass, you will get many many opinions. They all work, but each user finds the methods and materials that work for them. I think everyone should try several methods to find what works best for you.

As far as measuring, I have used the pumps, measured cups, and a scale. Hands down, I like the scale the most. The pumps tend to "burp" air during pumping and leave you wondering how much you actually have in the pot. The measured cups, and there are several ways to do these, work good, but mixing tiny amounts is difficult.
The scale is by far the best. It is the most accurate, and allows you to mix tiny amount for little gluing projects. No more throwing away an over mix. I insert the scale in a plastic baggie to protect it from spills, and put whatever size cup I am using on it, and turn it on, it zeros the readout so cup weight is not a factor. For Raka, the mix ratio is 100 to 44 by weight
I rarely mix more than 3-4 oz. at a time, and that is poured into an 11"roller tray which spreads it out allowing a long work time.

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-pocket-scale-93543.html

[Oldragbaggers]

In a continuation of this thread, how does everyone measure your epoxy components prior to mixing? Do you use the graduated mixing cups or pumps?

Pumps, absolutely. I always use pumps. It's easy, clean, and foolproof. I do occasionally end up having to mix more than I need, but most of the time I have something else waiting around to be glued or filled. So I usually have an extra project waiting in the wings for any leftovers. Most of the time that isn't much of a problem though.

If I'm rolling out my project (usually the case) I just pump straight into the disposable paint tray, mix it with a big craft stick (like a tongue depressor) right in the tray and then roll out.