West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby roadinspector » Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:50 pm

BC_Explorer wrote:Thanks Pete for the idea on the tubing. I purchased some clear tubing today to use and will post some pics later tonight or tomorrow.

Another question for anyone in general in regards to wiring. Is it better to run separate ground wires for each electrical connection to trailer frame? Or is better to tie in the ground wires to one common ground wire back to the battery?

Thanks.


It is always best to use a common ground wire. When you connect to trailer frame as mentioned you are asking for problems in the future.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:14 am

bc toys wrote:i used silicone where i run wires thew steel tubing just hold wires in middle of hole


Thanks. I will try this today as the other idea of running the wire through rubber hose is not working all that great. Part of the problem is that studs are not very wide/thick and I don't like having to drill out so much material in order to get the wires + the hose run. The holes that I have already drilled on one side of the trailer will accept 2 strands of 14 gauge wire through and with a bit of silicone, the wire should be fine against any abrasion as I have also taken the Dremel to the drilled holes and removed /smoothed out all sharp edges.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:16 am

roadinspector wrote:
BC_Explorer wrote:Thanks Pete for the idea on the tubing. I purchased some clear tubing today to use and will post some pics later tonight or tomorrow.

Another question for anyone in general in regards to wiring. Is it better to run separate ground wires for each electrical connection to trailer frame? Or is better to tie in the ground wires to one common ground wire back to the battery?

Thanks.


It is always best to use a common ground wire. When you connect to trailer frame as mentioned you are asking for problems in the future.


Thanks. That is what I had thought and will continue to plan for.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:30 pm

Today I spent a couple of hours cleaning up and fixing the factory wiring. I also got most of my rough-in wiring run started and should have that finished tomorrow am. I will also go pick up the insulation tomorrow and start on that. If all goes well, my plan is to have trailer somewhat usable for the May long weekend which is 8 weeks away...

The factory wiring in this trailer and many others I looked at while researching before purchasing, leaves room for improvement. The main wiring loom here at the front of trailer is a good (bad example). As you can see, the wiring is being pulled against and down from the small section of steel channel which would of rubbed a hole through the wiring in a very short time.

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I relocated the wiring away from the channel, separated it and also fixed up the wire loom so that wires in there are better protected. As you can see, I still need to wire wheel out the surface rust and spray with some Tremclad Rust paint.
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This run of wire did not have a grommet and it would of been a work to pull the wire. I used a short length of clear tube in which 14 gauge wire fits perfectly to help protect against any rubbing from the steel which I checked and there are no sharp edges etc on it.
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The wiring in both back corners of trailer were also in need of attention. Notice the brown wire and where it exits that sharp edged hole? I pulled the wire out and re-routed it in behind the steel channel.
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I took the Dremel to the steel channel edges but I was not completely confident that this alone was enough so I disassembled all the wiring connections then again, used clear tubing to further protect the wires.
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Wire run in the back corners where the lights are.
Before
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After:
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My dilemma of running wires through all the wall studs have been solved. I noticed today that the roof supports taper down and away from the roof as they junction at the side walls. I surmise that with this trailer being flat roofed, they use the same roof supports for the rounded edge roofs which would explain the gap there which is perfect for the wiring. The photo looks a bit deceiving as the gap is enough that I can put my index finger in it. I also used the Dremel to ensure there were no sharp edges on any of the supports. Tomorrow, the wires will get a few wraps of thick insulating tape which will ensure that there will be no way for the wires to be rubbed through, especially this wire that is already encased as it is.
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Another issue. That protruding screw is very close to the wire and I don't like not knowing the condition of the wire under that poor tape job...

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I also removed, inspected then re-wrapped the wiring here as I did on all other wires today. At this point, I am much more confident knowing that the factory interior wiring is now all inspected and fixed where needed.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby elmo_4_vt » Sun Mar 25, 2012 7:55 am

Nice fixes... :thumbsup: I have the same kinds of issues with mine and will be tackling the fixes later this week.

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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:19 pm

More progress today.

Started off by checking the side wall panels between the wall suds and where they meet the floor. As you can see in this photo, there is bit of gap that will allow cold air and and also, possibly allow moisture in.
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Even though it is not a big deal, sometimes my attention to detail can work against me. I ended up sealing every single panel with silicone whether they really needed it or not. This will now make the bottom of the trailer, air and water tight.
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The next step was to work on the insulation. I ended up going with the white PlastisSpan type of insulation as the other rigid foam insulation that most others are using in their CT's, cost a fortune up here. 4'x8'x1" sheets of this insulation is $9.79 per sheet, whereas the other rigid foam of the same size works out to almost $40.00 per sheet. The R value between the 2 types is only 1.25 which is not a lot. With taking the time to seal the wall/floor joints as I mentioned above along with careful application of insulation to all areas, the R value difference will be negligible
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Finished for the day. I now have a much better idea of what the white interior I am planning is going to look like.
I didn't insulate the front left side of the V-Nose as still need to work on the wiring.
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The panel to the immediate right of the side door was not completely sealed off yet as I realized I will need to access it to put some switches in later. The right front and also the area below the side of the trailer is a hodge podge of scrap ends of insulation pieces, but as you will see below what little scrap was left. I also still need to tidy up that spray foam on at the floor in the front right of the trailer. I am not all that worried about as it will be covered but still...
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Looking in through the side door toward the back. I also insulated and sealed the bulkhead above the rear doors and did the same above the side door which can be seen in the above photo. Notice the spacing of some of the wall studs? A couple of the studs have a double L lip on the outside edge so I had to cut the insulation down the middle to get it fit in. I still need to work on insulating the back corners of the trailer where the trailer running/brake lights and wire runs are.
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Out of 3 sheets (96 sq feet in total) of insulation, this is what scrap ends are left. With the left front of the V-Nose, the roof, the back curbside of the trailer and the rear trailer corners still to be insulated, I figure with careful planning, 2 more sheets of insulation will be all that is needed.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby Trainman45 » Mon Mar 26, 2012 2:19 am

Hi BC_Explorer,
Hey, great to see you picked up your Haulmark. Looks like you are getting right after it with the wire and insulation. My camping growing up was similar to you. Northern Minnesota in the woods, no electric or RV park. An electric port on the side of your trailer may be a good idea though. Even just the kind you can feed an extension cord through might work for ya. I have just added solar to mine, and a side port to to run the Rock & Roll outside. !! lol. Great start on your trailer.
Ride the Rails,
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby 8ball_99 » Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:59 am

As far as the 110v wiring goes. Whats your plans for charging the battery? Are you just going to to wire in a batter charger and a fuse panel or were you going to get an RV power converter? I would lean to the RV converter they aren't that expensive have 12v fuses and 110 breakers in them. They also have 3 stage battery chargers.. With the trailer being smaller if you did go with a converter you could mount a 110 oulet inside the trailer right by the panel. This way if the trailer was ever plugged into power even while parked at home you have the option to plug something in with out running a long cord.. Me for examble, I use an electric leaf blower to blow out my trailer after a trip.. Its nice to have atleast one outlet inside for things like that you might not think about now.. I mean if you plan on doing all your charging from either solar or the tow vehicle and think you will never have a generator or plug it in. Then I could see not having any 110v. I would still lean to having it an not using it then needing it and not having it. It would be much easier to do it now then later.. Also if you ever sale your trailer its worth keeping in mind most possible buyers would probably like the option. Thats why you never see a commercial travel trailer that isnt' wired for both 12v and 110.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:23 pm

Today I decided to add 110 volt and will keep this setup real simple as I mentioned previously. I picked up a 110 V, 15 amp plug and protective cover that will probably be installed tomorrow along with mounting the porch light....weather permitting that is. I also purchased a couple of small 12V LED lights to mount above the bed and might get those wired in tonight.

As for the converter, I will forgo this purchase for now as even my 12 volt requirements will be very low. With running the occasional LED light(s) etc, the battery will probably last longer then any camping trip I have planned for this summer anyway. I also have a couple of solar panels that along with the battery being charged while towing should maintain the charge level fine. Once at home, I have a spare 110 V charger that can top up the battery if needed.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby pete42 » Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:56 am

BC I like the way you have taken the time to make sure the wiring is correctly run and free from possible nicks and scraps.

120 volt convertor would be a great thing to have with the 12 volt and 120 volt breakers plus battery charger can't go wrong with that install

looking good the end is near, end of build not end of the world...............

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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:01 pm

pete42 wrote:
looking good the end is near, end of build not end of the world...............
Pete


Thanks Pete, however are these projects ever finished? I already have some ideas for CT conversion 2.0!
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Sat Mar 31, 2012 12:03 pm

I will be installing the 110 volt shore power plug today. Before I drill the hole, is there a standard height off the deck floor that these plugs are installed at? I was thinking of 18-20" but wanted to be sure as there is only one go at this and no margin of error when drilling holes through the side of the trailer...
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby 8ball_99 » Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:58 pm

BC_Explorer wrote:I will be installing the 110 volt shore power plug today. Before I drill the hole, is there a standard height off the deck floor that these plugs are installed at? I was thinking of 18-20" but wanted to be sure as there is only one go at this and no margin of error when drilling holes through the side of the trailer...



I'm pretty sure there is no standard.. I've seen them at all different heights. Both trailers I've built I installed the inlet was around that height.. Now one thing to keep in mind is if you park in a camp ground the power pole is almost always on the drivers side at the back of the spot. My trailers have been toy haulers so I've always had to mount mine up in the front of the trailers.. Just means I have to carry enough cord to atleast reach the back corner of the trailer. Same goes for water and sewer.
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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby BC_Explorer » Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:07 pm

Thanks 8ball. I didn't get the power plug installed and will hopefully get to it tomorrow.

The only real work I got done on the CT conversion yesterday and today was to install the porch light then also completed the wiring for a couple of LED lights that will be installed over the bed. Other then tidying up some other wiring, that is it for this weekend.

Although the porch light is installed, I will be taking it off and putting some silicone around where the white plastic trim and the metal backing plate inside the light housing meets. With the amount of rain we get here, I can see that housing, getting a lot of moisture inside. I will also be replacing the incandescent bulb with a LED type at some point.

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Re: West Coast 6x10 V-Nose Conversion

Postby 8ball_99 » Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:28 pm

It probably wouldn't hurt, But I've got 6 of those exact lights on my trailer and its been through some pretty major rains.. Including my trailer sitting with in a few miles of 5 different tornados since last year :? I have not noticed any water getting into the lights and I did check for leaks pretty well after the first couple of major rains. You see all that water sheeting over the windows and you just know something is going to leak somewhere lol. So far so good..
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