The "Slowmobile" Is under way! update 6/27/12

[mallymal]

Hey WOODBUTCHER.... your forum name is SO innappropriate, because that is some stunning quality work you've got going on. You should rename yourself WOODSURGEON. Every joint looks tight and precise - a joy to behold. I also like the fact it looks a good strong build but without the common mistake of putting in twice as many frame parts as is really neccessary and doubling the weight. I shall be watching this one with eager anticipation.

PS sweet profile too!

[S. Heisley]

Hey WOODBUTCHER.... your forum name is SO innappropriate, because that is some stunning quality work you've got going on. You should rename yourself WOODSURGEON. Every joint looks tight and precise - a joy to behold.....

I agree!

[Woodbutcher]

Thanks for the kind words. I did get a little more done before I pushed it into the barn. Just didn't get the pictures loaded. The cabinets are in and the doors in front will be sliders. I also made some progress in the galley. Oh, the hatch is built but not skinned. So really I have a big skeleton. I did pick up the wood to start skinning the outside. So, I hope to have some more progress soon. The roof will be a marine vinyl over some epoxy left over from my last build. Picked that up Friday. Here are a couple new pics.



The hole on the left is for the WFCO converter.





This one is just for fun. The dogs are always coming around when I get the camera out.

[wingnut]

From the pictures of the rear of the TD, looks like you cured the tire rub problem. What'd you do, put spacers between the hub and wheel?

[wingnut]

Have you used that shock set you put on your new build before? I'll be interested in knowing how well it works to dampen out the bounce and rebound, as I have a bit of that problem with my TD.

[Woodbutcher]

I have wheel 1" spacers going on but they are not installed in those pictures yet. They should give me enough clearance. I have not done shocks before but read about them on a thread here. I hope I have enough it helps smooth out the ride.

[wingnut]

My axle is a repreposed boat trailer unit that I narrowed up to make work on the TD. 2000 lb rating was too much, so I took 2 leafs out of the springs. It helped but it will still get airbourn on the big bumps. Not sure if shocks would help ot not.

[Woodbutcher]

Try a search on shocks. I had bookmarked a good thread on here but when they did the switch to the new format it stopped working. Many people swear by the shocks to smooth out the ride. Good luck with your build.

[KCStudly]

I have a link to the Monroe RV shock stuff in my build thread here.

The shocks I bought arrived today, but I'm a little concerned that they might be too short with insufficient travel for my off road style Jeep YJ leaf spring set up. I'll have to do some mock-up and noodling to see if they are going to work. Plan 'B' will be to get some YJ rear shocks and see if those fit better. If it comes to that I will offer the RV shocks on the 'For Sale' thread here. We'll see.

[Evan Gaffney]

This looks really great, and I think you're going to get the lightweight you set out for. Looking at what you're building, I'm thinking of scrapping my current plans (sandwich design) and copying what you're doing with your frame (with my own profile, of course). First, a couple of questions:

-I'm assuming most of that is poplar?
-How do you do the curved bits at the top? It looks way lighter and sturdier than a plywood cutout.
-How are you planning to seal the place where your profile and floor sit inside your frame's angle iron? I was planning to do the same thing, but I'm worried about water getting trapped in there.

Side note: I may be joining the western teardroppers myself. Looking at a job in Craig, Colorado close to where I grew up. Beats the crap out of New Jersey.

Thanks,
Evan

[Woodbutcher]

Hi Evan,

I used 1" thick soft maple for my frame. I first made a 1/4" full size pattern. Then I drew all my framing on the pattern. Helped to locate the doors and fenders. Then I cut mt frame parts to follow the pattern drawn on the 1/4" piece. All the joints are glued and pocket screwed (Kreg Pocket cutter) firmed it up. I don't know what kind of shop tools you have. Besides the Kreg tool, I have a good table saw, planer and an edge sander. I miter wider pieces together and trace the curve off my pattern. Then bandsaw the outside curve leaving my tracing line. Over at the edge sander I sand off the line to match the pattern. It is time consuming but it is light and very strong.
To seal the bottom edge I used Helmsman my Minwax. The 1/4' Outer skin will come down to top of the trailer angle iron, making everything flush. I will use a seal tape that has foil on the outside and a sticky rubber inside. I can't remember what it is called but it is 4" wide and is used to seal house windows when they are installed. It's about 10 bucks a roll at Lowes. The seal tape will go over the bottom 2 inches of the plywood side and the 2" of the frame. Then there will be a woody frame that will cover everything. So that process of building the frame gets done again. Tedious but very strong, and a nice look. I hope this make sense and I have not scared you off.

Good luck,
Steve

[campmaster-k]

Great work. Slowmobile. Perfect.

[Evan Gaffney]

Thanks, Steve, I think I can visualize what you're talking about. Sounds like a lot of man hours to form the curves, but it looks worth it.

[Woodbutcher]

Ok, I am back at work on the Slowmobile. The 1" wheel spacers arrived and they pushed the upgraded 15" tires away from the body. Another change I have made is in the roof material. The first plan was an aluminum roof. Changed that to marine vinyl over epoxied plywood, lighter and cheaper.

Got the 1/4" Mahogany on the outside installed. I was fortunate to find some with good Birch backs on them. Seeing as though the inside is exposed a nice back was a plus.



Here is the inside headboard area. The cabinet up front has sliding doors covering the storage area. The inside will stay like you see it.



Here is the footboard area. The small hole in the right lower corner is for the WFCO converter. The cabinets will have doors on the 2 outside spaces and the center section is for a heater and TV .



The hatch is made but not skinned yet. Still have a few things to make inside the galley.



This is the Woody frame. Made of soft maple and all joints are glued and pocket screwed. I have also installer "t-nuts" on the back side of the woody frame to mount the fenders to. This leaves no bolts inside the cabin.



The sides are sealed and so is the back side of the Woody frame. The frame is then screwed through the frame structure. This really firmed up the cabin.



This picture shows the trailer with the original 12" wheels. It was easier to install the frame and finishing was easier also.



Now just a side note. I have decided to try using an oil based exterior paint base.(the base before the color is added) There was a thread a few months back discussing this. So I will be a Guinea Pig on this one and report back on how it holds up.

The windows just arrived from Grant so I will start the doors tomorrow. The interior is finished with conversion varnish. Spraying it was a trip. I hate using the stuff but it is very durable. We will see how it does as well.

[KCStudly]

WOW! You do not disappoint. Very nice work.

Your design is very well thought out. My memory is feeble; do you use any particular design method (Sketchup, hand sketches, raw brain power...)?

A pleasure to gaze upon the work of a true wood smith.