I’m tired of tents, so I build this. (lots of pics)

[parnold]

Now you are traveling in style! You've put in some very nice features, and your craftsmanship shows! You'll have plenty of memories.

[thejonescompany1]

grizzly 660 after a trip

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Well that’s about it for now. My next project is “water”. Thanks to everyone who inspired me with great ideas.

[b.bodemer]

Looks great!!!!!!!!!!!!
Barb

[bigbendhiker]

Very nice build!

I particularly like the unique battery compartment you built. It's not obvious what it is.

Can you post a picture of the exterior of your a/c install? What size unit did you use?

Thanks

[markp1988]

and more info on the bed if you dont mind please

[AG25]

I also like the way you did the battery box. I was looking for a way to have a folding table on the outside to put things on when I cook outside now I think I am going to borrow your battery box idea and use it for storage and a place to prep when cooking.

could you add a couple more pictures of the hindge you welded where the bed attaches to the trailer,


Looks very nice!

[Fung]

Awesome!!!

[thejonescompany1]

The hinge is two 8 inch long pieces of 1 ½ inch angle iron. One is attached vertically to the wall stud. The second is welded vertically to the bed frame. The secret is the pivot point for the bed is the same height as the mattress above the bed frame (pivot is at the top of the mattress). This allows the bed to fold against the wall with the mattress in place. I used three 8 inch pieces on the wall, and three equal pieces on the frame. Three large grade 3 bolts are the “pin” the angle pivots on, with a washer in-between the two angle pieces. Nylock nuts insure the tension on the pins are constant. If this is too confusing ( hell I’m confused reading this) I can make some drawings for anyone who wants more detail. If anyone is in the St Louis MO area you are welcome to stop by and check it out, e mail me.

bed in up postion

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[thejonescompany1]

I used a 5K unit I had sitting around. This is plenty. I have been in direct sun in 105F weather and the trailed was a cool 68 degrees. The digital temp settings is worth the extra money!!! The AC is set in a frame of 2x4’s. the frame is screwed in from the outside wall in to the frame. The frame is sealed to the wall using “greatstuff” (window and door) spray foam. The AC then slides in from the inside and attaches using the standard lip on the unit with screws. The AC is sealed in with more “greatstuff” to keep water out. After the spray foam dried it was trimmed and painted. The outside has three pieces of flashing (top, and sides) to keep water from running down the trailer and getting between the walls. All seams were caulked and painted with outdoor hi-gloss. The whole trailer could use a good outside painting, but I’m so busy camping I don’t have time to be vein and worry about that. Again if this is too confusing ( hell I’m confused reading this) I can make some drawings for anyone who wants more detail. If anyone is in the St Louis MO area you are welcome to stop by and check it out, e mail me.

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[AG25]

thank you for the details obout the bed

[Trainman45]

Hi Thejones....
Hey great build and great pics.!! I really like your Wave 3 catalytic heater. I was just looking around to pick one up. My Little Buddy Mr. Heater works great, until you go high, which we do often. It does not work above 6000 ft. The Wave heaters are suppose to be good up to 12,000 ft. I like the way you get your propane into the trailer for the heater, looks clean and simple. When you have time, could you tell me the parts you used for the in and out of the trailer and the hose connections you used. Thank you very much. Great job on your trailer, your helping a lot of us with all your pics.!!

[markp1988]

yes thanks for the pics of the bed.One more ? what about rain coming in the back of the a/c is there a problem there

[thejonescompany1]

As far as rain coming in the rear of AC I have had no problem. I used expanding foam to seal the AC to the wall, and the flashing keeps the rain from getting to the seal at all. I even trailer with no cover sometimes with no problem. Make sure you tilt the AC downhill when the trailer is flat (keeps the condensation from running in the trailer).

As far as the heater I will get a few more pics and a list of parts I used and post soon.

[pete42]

very nice being able to weld has it's rewards

I worked in a foundry doing maintenance for 41 years one thing I miss is being able to build "home" projects.

I wonder about the back of the AC unit getting bug strikes going down the road smashing the fins on the AC.

one thing I saw you used galvanized street-ells to pipe in your propane, while you most likely won't have problems black pipe is used for any gas plumbing
it seems galvanizing can flake off and cause gas appliances to be come plugged and not work right.

once again congrats on your trailer.

pete

[thejonescompany1]

Most of the time I travel with a cover on the AC, but the few times I forgot to install before leaving I have had no issues with bugs or rain. Remember your tow vehicle has a big radiator, most the time two or three (AC condenser, trans cooler), with soft aluminum fins and no cover. Food for thought. Leafs, dirt, and debris have proven to be more harmful (in my situation) with the clogging of the drain holes in the unit keeping water from draining. I enlarged the size of the drain holes in the AC pan to allow “crud” to exit the pan. “Great success.”

As far as the galvanized pipe, the company who crimped my flex lines specializes in propane and natural gas and explained the concern. When running lines outside or burred in the ground the standard proper method is to use galvanized lines. Black pipe will rust through faster and do more harm than the galvanizing flaking off. Also better prep and a more controlled material supply have improved the process of galvanizing over the years. Propane tanks have little to no moisture inside and with sealed lines none is introduced form outside. I used hydraulic quick connectors (very expensive) (seals both the male and female side when disconnected) to insure the line stays dry when not hooked up.
But in theory this “could” be a concern, that’s why most heater manufactures put a small sintered filter in the inlets of their products. The reason most RV manufactures use black pipe is cost (look under a newer RV and you will be surprised with the low quality of the work and materials).

Thank you for the questions and responses, it keeps me on my toes. I’m an engineering and manufacturing nerd; I spend way too much time researching and thinking things through (It makes my friends angry).

Jeff