notoriouskelly wrote:I drained my A/C unit this morning; the past two days have been the most humid I've seen in Montana.
This morning 98% humidity on my weather station with no rain, so I've been keeping unit on.
I can see I'll install a drain tube to use in trailer so I don't have to manually empty the water.
re: generator- yes, a key factor in choosing which A/C to use was one that would run on my generator.
Good job on ditchin the rooftop at cost!
pmowers wrote:Have you looked in the bath section of the big box? They make a flexible molding for going around tubs and trim. It comes in a roll that is either flat or can be folded.
d30gaijin wrote:Now I need to do something about the underside of the overhead galley cabinet i.e., above the galley stove as a fire prevention measure. As it is now, the underside of the overhead galley cabinet is bare plywood. It's not visible unless you duck your head and look under the upper cabinet but it would be nice to have a fire resistant reflective metal up there.
norcal2 wrote:"I need some sort of flexible moulding to go around where the tin meets the formica counter top to finish it off."
I have an aluminum backsplash also, i used lightweight aluminum angle for where the counter meets the backsplash with caulk and did the same for where the cabinets meet above, i cut the angles with an angle grinder easy to do and use..and it is a little bendable for the front of my v nose which is a wierd angle..hope this helps..when you stand outside and look into the trailer you see the bottom of my cabinets..i couldnt leave them not finished!
pmowers wrote:If you know or see any of the seamless gutter or aluminum siding crews around, you might be able to talk them out of a 6 ft. strip of aluminum that they use to make gutters out of. A neighbor was having their gutters replaced, and I asked. The guy reached into the back of the trailer and handed me a roll with about 15 feet of white one side / tan other about 18 inches wide. They cannot use it because it takes more than that to prime the rollers.
The backsplash looks fine, in spite of the way the flash illuminates it. The aluminum trim on the counter and cabinets helps tie it together. It will look even better when you replace the receptacles as you mentioned.
You mentioned that you were going to Sacramento in several weeks, are you taking the trailer with you for a shake-down voyage after all the additional mods that you have completed?
Pat
d30gaijin wrote:norcal2 wrote:"I need some sort of flexible moulding to go around where the tin meets the formica counter top to finish it off."
I have an aluminum backsplash also, i used lightweight aluminum angle for where the counter meets the backsplash with caulk and did the same for where the cabinets meet above, i cut the angles with an angle grinder easy to do and use..and it is a little bendable for the front of my v nose which is a wierd angle..hope this helps..when you stand outside and look into the trailer you see the bottom of my cabinets..i couldnt leave them not finished!
Norcal2,
Can you supply any pics of your back splash or direct me to where I can see them? Because of the long curve of our galley I'm not sure I could get aluminum angle to bend to the curve without it buckling.... EDIT... OK checked your build thread and found the pic below of your galley counter and backsplash interface (I hope you don't mind me posting your pic in our build thread) and can just make out the aluminum angle you refer too. Unfortunately, because of the long curve of our NOT a V nose CT, I don't think I can make it work like you did. Bummer.
Don..i notched the front section of the v nose to make the bend in the v nose, filled in the notches with caulk doesnt look to bad..so your slight bend might be easier with a few notches on the under side of the angle.. when you bend with out notches it does buckle! even with heat..if you are in sacramento..Blue Collar Supply on florin perkins road has aluminum cheap..cheaper then wood trim along with steel and aluminum sheet, diamond, etc..its a guys project toy store!
Don
d30gaijin wrote:As to our ceiling; I first installed 1" blue foam board then cut Luan paneling to fit. I spaced the Luan paneling so the ends would meet on one of the CT's overhead frame rails. I then held the Luan paneling in place and drilled 1/8" holes through the paneling, through the frame rail, and then used an aluminum pop rivet to attach the Luan panel to the frame rail. I have yet to decide what I will do about the seams, or should I say sealing/covering them but figure I'll come up with something, or steal... errr... adapt more or less. :FNP
TJinPgh wrote:Not sure if you've addressed this since this was posted but, I have a couple of thoughts on this depending on what you intend to do with the luan.
If you're planning on painting it then just spackle it. I'm guessing, though, that you weren't doing that.
if you're looking for a way to cover the seams that doesn't stand out too much you might try the iron-on veneer strips Should cover the gap nicely. It can then be stained to match the rest of the luan.
Won't be invisible but should look decent.
OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:Big Daddy Don
If you had read my thread a LONG....LONG.....LONG......LONG time ago I said that a single hose ac sucked big time.....![]()
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But my new 5,000 Btu window ac on the roof works great .....![]()
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I will however also use your idea for my single hose a/c unit.... Its an LG
the problem will be that I have 4 intake vents ....so that will make the project a lot more fun ....
but now I have a PLAN to hack that piece of sh** LG that I own![]()
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So stay tuned...thanks for the new idea :-))![]()
I can add the LG for when it gets really really HOT !!![]()
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