Clever Mods

[shootr]

Gotta give the pipe clamp stabilizers clappy hands - pretty darn cool!

[2bits]

Put in a closet hangar rod in a very shallow space and use hangars with swivel hooks! I could get 10 shirts in there, and it was a super small space. Sorry if the image is too big I zoom in and out on my TV and I can't tell what is the default size anymore



And I have always thought the moon roof was cool. It has non-tinted glass for watching the stars while laying back in bed.

[2bits]

do you regeate now selling your teardrop? I still love your teardrop and have conserded moving to a truck pop up camper.

I like my tear though very much and

when the end of the day comes down.

I have no desire for any other camper in the world.

slow

Hi Slow, I do not regret selling the teardrop at all. I will always love it, but I was already thinking about my next build, plus I just consider it like a traded the teardrop for my land, since I used all of the money for the down payment!

I am planning on building a steel frame teardrop in the next couple of months using the leftover black aluminum from my last teardrop so I will have a teardrop again soon, and then after that work on building the tiny trailer my mom is giving me.

[kirkman]

How about a window insert for AC without cutting any holes in the tear:


Bruce

Bruce...... Where did you get the rubber/plastic hoses for your air conditioner????? Or is that a pet cool and they come with it?

[bdosborn]

That's an older 2,000 btuh pet cool. I got the hoses and fittings from Camping World; it's RV sewer hose. The pet cool was inadequate in hot weather even though our tear was insulated. I would go with a 5,000 btuh window shaker with Shadowcatcher's modification if I was doing it over. Besides, pet cools are way expensive now. But I would still use the (clean never used) sewer hose and fittings.

Bruce

[Via]

I think a neat mod is the window curtain rods in 2bits picture of his moon roof. How is that done?

[2bits]

I think a neat mod is the window curtain rods in 2bits picture of his moon roof. How is that done?

Thanks!

I was about to go camping all weekend and I knew that after my first night out a week before, I HAD to have some kind of cover over the window since it wasn't tinted. (I don't like getting up at sunrise) So this actually was a git-er-done idea to replace a original sliding roll top desk kind of idea, but this worked out great.

I went to the junkyard and found six identical windshield sun visor clips. I got the wooden dowels from the big orange store and since they were not long enough, I used a steel sleeve to extend the rods. Whenever they start to sag over time, I simply roll the rods and they hug the roof again. Just be sure to make the rods extra long so if it slides to one side it will hit the wall before falling out of the other end.

Here's some pics for detail, you can see how to orient the clips:



I'm also kinda proud of my door curtains, that used a rod on top and bottom, along with grommets to force the curtain to hold the pleated shape which I think is very cool looking:

[Via]

Very attractive. What did you use to anchor the rods on the door?

[2bits]

Very attractive. What did you use to anchor the rods on the door?

Just a cut off from some aluminum U channel from the box store. The screw acts as a stopper, and I cut the rod so it barely fits in, so you can swivel the housing up or down to remove the rod to do any curtain repair work without having to remove the screw. I stepped out the aluminum housing 1/2 inch with a little strip of naturally dark (no stain needed) "epay" that I just mitered at a simple 45' angle. I loved these last little details!!!!

[Via]

Ingenious and good looking. The pictures are great to see what was done. I may have to redo my window curtains the same way. I am tired of the curtains flapping in the wind when I open the door and the rod coming unhooked. Thank you for sharing.

[2bits]

Glad to help!!! That is what we are all about!

[WhitneyK]

I left my curtains "flappy" at the bottom so we could "peek out in a hurry" if need be. Just used what I had layin' around.


The nock end of the arrow is wider than the door, but that's ok, it "rolls" around the corner when you shut the door.
Removed the primer from the shotgun shell (12ga high brass), used a piece of 1/2" cpvc pipe inside of the shell for structural support, bored a hole big enough through the shell and the pipe to slip the aluminum arrow (a 24/13 to be exact) thru snug, bored a hole through the arrow where the primer for the shell was and ran a 3" drywall / deck / utility screw in. Lucky for me, the screw was already the gold color. Sturdy, yet light weight. Trimmed the fletchings down for visual appeal.
24/13 = .24 diameter - just a shade under 1/4", with .13 wall thickness. Like I said, it's not that precise, just what I had laying around. We've since changed over to carbon arrows, guess they would work too, just a lot more $$$. The whole point is funtionally frugal.

[Via]

Clever idea. It goes with the curtain fabric.

[working on it]

I had previously posted a "clever mod" here, that some others have shown interest in. I just added some more pics and info in my gallery, and I'll share that here too: Harbor Freight pipe clamp stabilizer Use the right side part (as pictured) only, save the rest for future use? Get 3/4" diameter threaded iron pipe, end caps, and round feet (stanchions?). I used 30" long pieces (use longer if needed, for taller trailers). Use 1/4" bolts (and washers, and locknuts) to fit thru already drilled holes in clamps (refer to gallery photos of my trailer); grade 2 will be strong enough, I would've preferred grade 5 or 8, but didn't find any long enough. Use clamp to mark spots to drill 2 holes thru trailer frame, drill , then test fit clamp piece to dtermine lenghth of bolts needed.On workbench, insert pipe thru clamp, loctite on cap and feet (if you want to be able to remove the foot and completely withdraw the pipe for ground clearance while travelling, just screw it on w/o the locktite). Then, drill a hole thru pipe in the raised position to insert a locking pin to hold up for travel. Take assembly and mount to trailer. When you lift up on clamp relaese, the pipes will slide down to the ground, and when you let go of the release, you won't be able to raise the pipe. To raise the pipe, use the release and lift the pipe to travelling postion. Insert the safety pin. There you go!

[suckerpunched]

Kinky Slow,,,,,I like it,,,,,