New Larger Design Cargo Conversion 8.5’ x 20’

[ironman]

I love the rear galley in teardrops. It seems that outdoor cooking is real camping. That’s why I’m calling my design a Camper instead of a Recreational Vehicle. I have a kerosene single burner stove inside but its primarily for heat rather than cooking. I plan to use it for making coffee or heating up a can of soup or beef stew on cold/wet/rainy days. But the real cooking is done outdoors just like a primitive camp. But it’s not primitive at all as you shall see.
My three stoves are Butterfly A822 all aluminum single burner kerosene types that only cost $80.00 each. I don’t plan on using propane at all.
Lighting too is kerosene and also from Butterfly.
My design barely has any electrical system at all…Just the trailer lights and brakes powered by the tow vehicle plus a shore power cord to run the window style air conditioner if I want to use shore power or a small generator. There is also a solar panel on the roof to maintain the charge for a pair of deep cycle batteries which are only for the 3 fantastic fans mounted in the roof. Simple, and since I’m no electrician, easy too.

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The Trailer
Flat top and flat front. Wind deflection will be on the tow vehicle.
Custom built with one vertical slide window on the right rear and a door positioned 5’1” from the front corner to allow the interior space forward of that to enclose a front storage locker with 2 doors on the front and to the rear of the locker a 3’ x 5’ wet head and a curtained off closet.
The rest of the interior is laid out similar to a Gypsy Vardo with an athwart space queen sized bed and a lounge/dinette with slide out table. In the corner near the shower door is the interior stove above the window type air conditioner.
Under the bed there are several drawers for clothing and miscellaneous items and to the rear of the drawers under the bed is a storage locker accessed from the outside for storing hunting and fishing gear.

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Also under the bed is a 3’ x 5’ slide-out table. Best of both worlds…a lounge with two settee’s or a dinette/desk when needed.

Awnings
Both sides of the trailer have sheet metal awnings that lift with support from pneumatic lift supports similar to what is found on larger SUV’s. Underneath each awning is foam insulation which gives them rigidity and cooler shade below. They also serve as extra security to keep out intruders while you’re away from the trailer. The left awning serves as a carport for the tow vehicle in case of a hail storm.
I can have both awnings built locally for the price of a single canvas RV awning.


Forward Lockers
The tongue of the trailer will have diamond plate standing place for accessing the locker doors. The upper section is for dry storage of hanging clothes etc. The lower section is for general storage and two deep cycle batteries in the center (mentioned above). The floor and shelf are both covered with charcoal indoor/outdoor carpet.

[ironman]

Here is another photo to clarify the end of my post.

[ironman]

The Galley

My galley consists of only two fold down work tops with cut outs for two stoves on one side and two dish pans on the other.
In the middle is the pantry and prep area and beneath that are four very deep drawers for storage of camp gear. They're 5' long x 17" deep x four across.
Each cubby in the pantry has a lexan or plexi-glas door with spring hinges. At counter height is a wide bread box compartment 8" deep x full width for storing such things as silverware, dry goods, salt-n-pepper, ketchup and steak sauces etc. Basically just things that are used most frequently. In the bins below can be stored large items such as an extra wide pop-up canopy for erecting over the galley area in rainy weather. The general layout can be seen in the next photo.

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[Trackstriper]

Ironman, welcome aboard. Thanks for posting your design work.

You have some very interesting ideas. I'm in progress on a large trailer at the moment....haven't been posting much lately though. Hope you'll take my comments as constructive.

The cargo door cooking facility looks great. Most cargo trailers use wood framed rear doors and they might not handle the stress of cantilevered counters without twisting the framing, and that will eventually go downhill. There are fortunately some trailer manufacturers that frame the cargo doors with steel and use some serious hinges. You may have plans to support the counters from below and that might work too.

Plan for interior wheel boxes, all 8.5' wides will have them....didn't see anything in your design that would get in the way of their slight incursion into the interior....tandem axles with 20' long trailer.

One of your details that intrigues me is the hard-shell awnings, very nice. I really like the idea and haven't seen it before. It seems like you have them divided into two sections for ease of handling. I do have a concern with the forward section on the curb side. It will block your entry/egress from the trailer if it is in down position due to weather (high winds) or malicious mischief. How ya gonna get out if someone lets the awning down while you're snoozing? You could work with an entry door that opens inward, but that would be a custom set-up as all standard doors that I've seen open outward. A door opening inward might let you muscle the awning out of the way in an emergency. Maybe leave a gap for the door between the awnings, or move the entry door forward a bit and go with a single, longer awing on the curb side?

Consider a larger walk-in closet in the nose, interior access...might have to slightly rearrange the bath layout....so that you actually have dry storage of your hanging items and miscellaneous stuff. Batteries and genny could live on the tongue in a box. The seals on the nose doors would have to be pretty good to keep things dry and a standard trailer manufacturer might charge you a fair sum to put doors in the nose....that would probably be out of their normal range of options. I did see an Ebay ad a couple of years ago for a used landscaping trailer with nose doors though, so it's not impossible.

Food for thought. I'll try to keep up with your project.

[ironman]

Hi Blackstriper,
You're right...I plan on supporting the worktops from below. I haven't learned enough about "Sketchup" yet to use the "follow me" feature to show a squared up, u-shaped bent pipe.
I have the pipe bender in the real world though.
You have a point regarding the possibility of awning difficulty from bad weather or from mischief...I'll have to give that more thought.

As for waterproofing the front doors, I have drawn nautical style doors that cover over the openings since my past experience is with boats instead of trailers. Clothng stored up front would most probably be for seasonal items or clothing that is used only once in a while.

I started out thinking of this as a bug-out trailer rather than an RV. That's why the kerosene and bare electrical system.
I grew up down south sleeping in the summer by a window and with an attic fan going like jessie. It was very adequate and I can do it again if needs be.
With three fantastic fans I can open the one window from the bottom up and regulate the breeze coming from outdoors to my own comfort level.

I've been lurking here for quite some time and now I'm looking to you guys to make suggestions.

Ironman

[roadinspector]

Ironman,
Welcome to headscratching and sounding board. I have gotten a lot of help and ideas from this little oasis. Nice design you have going. If you are concerned about lighting draining you batteries, you could install 12v LED lights that draw so little you won't hardly notice it. With the solar charger and two deep cycle batteries, they will not have a problem catching back up quickly.

I do not see a location for you batteries. What type of deep cycle batteries are you going to use? I have always been paranoid of batteries in a occupied area until recently with the advent of the Gell and AGM style. I have been convince by others that the AGM is the best for storing in places where venting is an issue and is safe for storing inside an occupied area.

Earnest

[ironman]

Hi Roadinspector,
Thanks for the reply. I plan on keeping the batteries in the forward storage compartment - right in the center to divide the lower half. Easy to get at.
I'll keep a few LED flashlights around but the primary reason for the batteries is to run the fantastic fans.
Kerosene, used as a light source, is what made John D. Rockefeller rich.

In order to maximize my options for using this trailer, I have added a large luggage platform to the top.
Someone talk me out of it...

Ironman

[jjvw]

Cool design. You might consider a tilt-able or movable solar unit. The sun is only straight up for a few hours. In winter, it never is straight up. It would also allow parking in the shade. If any part of the unit is not getting sun, it dramatically reduces power. We made a solar extension cable for a couple 2'x6' 65 watt amorphous units for which angle and shading are not as critical.
Led lighting is simple and doesn't wear down the battery. We use surplus 12v rv fixtures($3) and replaced the bulbs with leds. Makes finding the flashlights much easier Before we got the CT, we strung clear led xmas lights around the tents. An automotive jump box and a cheap converter powered them for a week.
Have fun

[roadinspector]

ironman,
You might also consider installing Maxxair vent covers on your roof vents that are not covered by the luggage rack. It will allow you to have roof ventilation when it is raining. They also allow you to keep the vent open when the CT is in storage. As you are probably aware of, a trailer with ventilation last longer than one without.

Earnest

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

WOW

this is definitely the very best virtual trailer we have ever had
it looks like you spent 100+ hours designing your project

May I ask what trailer manufacture will custom build this unit for you ?
and the price that you expect it will cost ?

Jerry

[ironman]

Hi Overthetop,
My! what a whale of a compliment. Thank you much.
Actually, I drew it all in one day...though I had already designed and drawn it in 2-d using Auto-cad and Paintshop Pro.
So, I already knew what I wanted to illustrate in 3-D.

I plan to purchase a bare frame and build the cab myself.
I am a Machinery Dealer and have all my own metalworking and woodworking equipment. My home shop is 30' x 50' and 2 stories tall.
I'll have to farm out the pressbrake work for the awnings because of the edge work needed but I recently had a lot of brake work done on a 25 ft aluminum sailboat I'm building and all in all it came to $140.00.
I have to finish the boat before I can start on the trailer.

Ironman

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[ironman]

I had a "Eureka!" moment a few minutes ago.
As you know, shower pans drain from all directions to a convenient drain hole to prevent standing water and it's possible problems.
But try as I might, I couldn't figure a way to do that from a piece of aluminum check plate without a $100,000.00 press and a $50,000.00 custom die.
That's OK for washing machine builders making thousands of units but its not for you and me.

My "brilliant" idea is to do away with the normal drain entirely and simply perforate the entire shower floor
with 1/4" holes on a 2" grid.

And "Voila' " no standing water and no problems.

On another front I added a sliding aluminum plate to close off the opening under the seat.
After all, even the smell of the deodorant can get a little much for my nose.

The dump valve is inside the trailer at the back for security reasons.
Dumping the gray water (from outside), whether by accident or from mischief, is not as serious in my mind.
The black water tank is filled with fresh water to 1/3 on the sight gauge and is done from outside.
RV deodorant is added.
It's also vented out the roof and I think I've found a further solution to inside odor possibilities... http://www.drainmaster.com/360RVUniversal.html
Anyone have any experience with this product?

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[ironman]

FOR TRACKSTRIPER (SORRY ABOUT THE PREVIOUS SPELLING)

IN PONDERING YOUR THOUGHTS ABOUT ACCESS/EGRESS TO THE CABIN WITH THE AWING DOWN ETC, I DECIDED TO PLACE A DOOR THROUGH THE AWNING.
KINDA LIKE THE MAN DOORS IN AN AIRCRAFT HANGER'S LARGE DOOR.

HERE'S A PIC

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[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Ironman

Oh now I get it , i'm a little slow on the uptake these days, you work with metal.

I am in the progress to see if I can make a new trailer 8.5 x 18 , i'm good with everything except working with metal,
Right now I put stuff together with screws or rivets - but don't really like the outcome.
wish I knew a little more about metal working & had some tools for that.

I'm wondering if you could help me make a few parts & I would be more then happy to pay you in CASH !!
you gave me the idea when I saw your boat
or maybe you could fix me up with someone you know who can work with alum & do a little welding...

You can see my build here
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=44951

Thanks Jerry

[ironman]

Hello again,
You do realize we are over 3000 miles apart don't you. I'm east coast (NC) and you're Bay Area California.

I dont exactly work with metal...I mostly sell metalworking machines though I do have some things like a welder set up for welding aluminum, a ring roller for round pipe, a notcher, 24" brake for making small brackets etc.

But any local sheet metal shop in the silicon valley area can do it cheaper than I can; especially when you consider size and freight costs.
Last I looked diesel fuel is still over $4.00/gal.
As I pointed out earlier, I had a bunch of shearing and brake work done to both cut down 5 x 10 sheets into usable sizes and to fold the seat tops and fronts from one piece.
All together, it only came to $140.00...cheap.

I could certainly use the money but I'd rather be a friend and set you on the right path in this case.

Dan