This is a test glue up using the piece of foam I used to check for depth of cut. I wanted to see whether the GG would force the blocking up past flush.
The recess is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 3/4 deep which matches all of my “standard” blocks; select pine because it is relatively light and inexpensive. I know it is a little softer, so I will use the course Kregg screws to attach cabinets and such, and can inject glue in the screw holes to reinforce them at final install, after dry fitting.
Knowing that many of these blocks will be in the field of the wall, and will only be able to be weighed down while gluing, for the test I just clamped the block down softly near the edge of the bench. The quick clamp only reached just inside of one edge of the block and because it was only clamped softly the GG was able to force the far edge of the block up above flush by at least 1/16 inch. I’ll have to double-side tape it to the bench and do a test with the belt sander to see if I can make it flush without too much drama or distress to the surrounding foam. I don’t think the uneven expansion will be such a big deal with adequate and even weighting, but I may do another test or two, one with GG and weight, and another with TB2 which won’t expand at all. According to the reports on the forum TB2 between foam and wood works fine because the wood can absorb the moisture, right?
Here is the front section up by the head of the bed.
The two upper recesses closest to the door frame are for the front cabinet face frame; the upper one will actually be cut away slightly by the curve of the ceiling profile. The top of the cabinet frame rail will have to be shaved to match the arch. the corresponding recess at the front wall is for the ledger to support the "back" of the cabinet floor at the front of camper. The lower middle one is for the front of the key catcher shelf. The double recess handles the "rear" of the key catcher (front of camper) with the reading/courtesy light and switch below.
Here you can see the bigger picture with the front of the wall farthest away and bottom of wall to the right (in case it wasn’t obvious wink

The hole above the back edge of the door frame header is for the dome light on that side. Below that, under the tail end of the door header is for a coat hook. The two pair to the rear of those are for the rear upper and lower cabinet face frames.
You can see where I have started to temporarily attach some scrap 5mm ply to guide the router for the bulkhead blocking recess. Before that I used the small square template to cut a starter hole at the bottom. That gave me the accuracy to nestle into the corner of the bottom stringer and the extra reinforcement strip for the galley drawer/ice chest tray glides. After setting the router up on the guide strips I quickly realized that they are too far apart and the router shoe will drop off on one side before reaching the other; so I will reposition the front one closer, make a first cut, space off of the rear strip to place the front strip in its final position, move the rear strip forward to suit the router shoe, and complete the cut in a second pass (another time).
After that, the two recesses on the left are for the two upper galley shelves, while the three others are for the side support ledgers for the galley counter and under counter face frame. Reflecting on it now, the lower most block on the street side is not required since the ice chest got moved to this side and there is no face frame stile on this side. Oh well, I’ll throw a block in there anyway, just in case I need to strap the cooler in, or whatever the future may bring.
The bottom of the laminated wall edge piece (one of the two curved arch pieces that I glue laminated way back when) will fit into that little corner formed by the wall sill and the added piece for the cooler slides. The rest of the wall blank forms the “bustle” of the hatch and will be trimmed to the profile later.
Here is another look at the bulkhead area. If you look closely near the top you can see a black sharpie line indicating where the top of the blocking will be. This too will be trimmed away by the ceiling profile and the top of the bulkhead will have to be shaved to approximate the arch.
Not much doing on the camper this weekend as I prepare to have a crowd over for Xmas dinner. I did stop in at the shop for a bit today to drop off Karl's presents, pet the cat some, and trim out the fillets in the corners of the recesses left by the router bit.
Hope everyone has a relaxed and joyous holiday!

