Wheel lockup issue, sticky brake

[dustboy]

Hi folks-
I bought a 2006 Interstate 6 x 12 enclosed trailer that I plan to convert to dual-use work/camping.




First thing I'm dealing with is the brakes. When I bought it, I failed to notice that the master cylinder on the surge brake had no cap and was full of water. D'oh. First thing I did was replace the master cylinder and bleed the hell out of the system (I ran about 1 liter of fluid through it).

After a stop, the front left wheel sometimes will lock. If I start moving, it will just drag the tire and make smoke. I have to stop and reverse to get it to release.

I thought maybe the drum was rusty, so I checked it out, it looks fine. After some stops/reverse/starts it got a lot better. But it still happens on occasion.

Brakes are 10" Dexter hydraulic drums.

[48Rob]

Dusty,

Welcome!

You probably don't want to hear this....but you need to pull the wheels and hubs and check the wheel cylinders.
If moisture got into the system, it is possible you have rust/pitting in the wheel cylinders, which may not be allowing the shoes to fully retract.
It could also be something simple like a broken or unattached return spring...
Always good practice when buying a trailer to jump in and become an expert on the systems, and make sure they are in top condition.
It is after all the foundation for your new home away from home.
The bearings and races need to be cleaned, checked, and re greased anyway.
We're here to help!

Rob

[eamarquardt]

You don't want to check your wheel cylinders, you want to replace them. If the master cylinder was filled with water the whole system was contaminated and it is very unlikely that your wheel cylinders are any good.

I'd take a look at your brake lines (as best you can) and see how rusty they are on the inside. If they're really rusty I'd replace them also. If fact, if they are rusty at all I'd replace em as it isn't that expensive to do so. At a minimum I'd blow em out really well with as much pressure as possible using compressed air. Then after installing the wheel cylinders and bleeding the system, I'd wait a few days or so and bleed the system again. That was any water in the rust of the brake lines will leech out into the new fluid and when you bleed the brakes the second time you'll get rid of the, again, contaminated fluid.

For far less than a hundred bucks you can do it right the first time.

http://www.etrailer.com/question-28330.html

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/index.cf ... catId=1725

My mottos: Overkill in moderation. Better safe than sorry. You never have the time and money to do it right the first time but you always have the time and money to do it right the second time.

Good luck.

Gus

[KCStudly]

While you're in there, look to make sure that the shoes are on the correct side. The shoe with the shorter lining should be at the front, and the shoe with the longer lining should be at the rear.

I agree that the problem is probably with the wheel cylinder or springs, but it doesn't hurt to look at everything very closely and lube all of the wear points sparingly.

[dustboy]

Thanks all for the thorough replies. Yes, most of your information I didn't want to hear...

Fortunately I got a pretty good deal on the trailer. I have already replaced one of the wheel cylinders that was leaking, that was a fairly easy job. The hardest part was getting my local auto parts store to find the part and order it; next time I will order it from etrailer, I can get a whole brake assembly for a little more than I paid for the cylinder!

If I were to go around and replace everything, it would be pretty tempting to just convert the whole rig to electric brakes, right?

[Corwin C]

Having used both the hydraulic and electric brakes, I do prefer the electric. Make sure that you can get all the parts before converting. Electric may take a different backplate, hub, shoes, springs, etc.

[eamarquardt]

If you have 10" brakes the brake drums you have should be suitable. So, all you'll need to do is switch the backing plates with some these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Trailer-3500- ... a2&vxp=mtr

You'll also need a break away switch to tie your trailer battery to your brakes in case your trailer becomes separated from your tow vehicle.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-Curt-12V- ... f0&vxp=mtr

You'll also have to add a brake controller to your tow vehicle.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus

[dustboy]

Conclusion to our tale of broken brakes: I replaced the wheel cylinder and all is good. I delivered a load of kitchen cabinets in it the other day and it stopped on a dime with no drama.

Also found that the local trailer supply shop near my work had the wheel cylinder for cheaper than etrailer.com!

[48Rob]

Glad to hear you got it figured out and repaired.
Thanks for coming back to let us know what it was!

Rob

[dustboy]

Well, after a 200-mile maiden voyage, the sticky brake is back. It was fine for the trip, then toward the end of my drive to work this morning, it locked up at the last two stop signs.

I stopped by the local trailer supply, and he thought maybe the springs needed replacing, but they seem pretty springy to me.

My next step is to just replace the whole assembly, for about $120 I can get a new backing plate assembly and drum/hub. GRRRR..

[Dale M.]

[b]If you have 10" brakes the brake drums you have should be suitable. So, all you'll need to do is switch the backing plates....


Gus

Not sure on this..... Electric brakes needs the machined flat that the magnets engage with, not sure if drums from hydraulic system has desired flat surface machined in to them... Also my experience with my electric brakes on my car carrier leads me to believe one should replace drums when replacing backing plates and shoes (its a wear issue with drums)....

Even with all new wiring and shoes and drums and magnets, I have one side that will not engage with same friction/intensity as other side... Still challenged to get electric brakes to balance....

Dale

[dustboy]

I think I've finally tracked down the issue...I tried again at adjusting the brake, and the screwdriver came out of the adjustment hole with a gob of grease on it! Pulled the drum and the rear axle seal had been leaking.

Was it here that I read that axle grease can make the brake shoes grabby? The guy at the trailer supply shop said the same. I bought 4 seals as I'm sure if the other axles aren't leaking they will be. I'll give the assembly a good squirt of brake parts cleaner and reassemble, and let you all know what happens.

[jeff0520]

I agree on the wheel cylinder issue, but if you still have the problem after ensuring the wheel cylinders are ok, I once saw a car that was doing something similer. Turns out the brake hose for one wheel was going bad, and it was the internal layer of rubber that had failed, creating a flap, that acted like a check valve and kept pressure in the line when the brakes were released. It's an oddball problem, but I always keep that one in mind for mystery brake issues.

[dustboy]

Well, I think the grease was the culprit, knock on wood.

[48Rob]

Glad to hear you found the culprit!

When you have it all apart (again) to install the new seals, beyond just cleaning the spindle surface, be sure to check it carefully for corrosion.
If the surface of the spindle that the seal rides on is the least bit rough, it will "eat" seals very quickly.
If you do find roughness, some emery cloth to polish it up will be the cure.

Grease/oil will make the shoes "grabby" or not grab at all, leaving only one side of the trailer actually doing any braking, again, making it feel grabby.
Sometimes you can use solvent to clean the grease/oil from the brake pad material, usually replacing the bad one is required.

Rob