I have 2 1/2 months to build a trailer in

[Ron Dickey]

I am on a very tight budget.
I have a trailer that could make it to the Dam Gathering and it would probably hold up but the right wheel only runs on the inside tread. Will cost around 300 plus to fix and the suspention sucks.

My plan is to put it on a harbor freight trailer.
You can find my build ideas on the Build journal under the title Cross Bow.

I work at a large hardware store so I will be getting most of the wood and hardware there. (gun ports again )

I put this on General to get my first answer to an important question

For those who have used or are using Harbor Freight trailer frames, what problems have you had and what should one who is looking for before I put my body on it.

I have a place to do it most of the tools I have and now know several folks who can give me help in my build. Or point me in the right direction.

I have been on this forum sense it began, still can't spell worth a damn, but I have learned so much from all of you that I think I am skilled enough to build it.

I have one thing I never have plans made out before hand. I have general idea drawings so my chances of making a bobo are greater.

However the BoxKite has been on the road sense 2007 pulled in 3 states, 8 gatherings, stayed at 8 Koa's, Plus 4 other vacation events. I have had only trailer frame problems broken tung and wheel axel brake on my previously owned boat trailer frame. At the start it had doors that were closed and locked with a pad lock and gun ports with no glass for windows.

So I think I will do ok as long as I fix any problems with the HF trailer early on. I chose them because they are close and I can buy it from them and not have to weight for shipping.

Later I can move the trailer on to a better frame as time and money allows.

So it you have had problems with your harbor freight trailer please tell me.

Ron Dickey
Los Osos, CA

[Vedette]

We don't have HF here in Cananda.
But, I would only consider building a frame to suit my buld out of 2x2 or 3x3 inch .125 wall tubing.
As for suspension??
You should look into a Dexter Rubber Ride axle. Way less money than you think if you buy directly from Dexter!
And to your exact spects and wt.
Good Roads
Brian

[parnold]

I have about 8000 miles on my harbor freight frame. When you get it, clean the bearings completely, and repack with grease. I carry a spare hub with me that I bought on ebay, so if I have a bearing issue, I can just replace the entire hub and not fight with bearings on the side of the road. Harbor Freight frames are fine!

I also have a 1974 harbor freight trailer that I towed well over 10,000 miles, and never needed to replace bearing in it.

Good luck with your build.

[Ron Dickey]

We don't have HF here in Cananda.
But, I would only consider building a frame to suit my buld out of 2x2 or 3x3 inch .125 wall tubing.
As for suspension??
You should look into a Dexter Rubber Ride axle. Way less money than you think if you buy directly from Dexter!
And to your exact spects and wt.
Good Roads
Brian

Pros
A trailing arm suspension will almost invariably give a softer and higher-quality ride than any solid axle, owing primarily to the fact that movement at one wheel doesn't have to affect the other. This is an important consideration if you do a lot of towing over dirt and grass and in inclement conditions, since the independent suspension will keep your trailer stable and planted on the road. Some configurations using pinch bolts can allow you to rotate the torsion arm relative to the spring, allowing for an adjustment in ride height. These axles require minimal maintenance, come in capacities upward of 10,000 pounds, and the rubber springs should give you just as many road miles as a metal torsion bar.

Cons
Rubber torsion bar suspensions have three major drawbacks. The first is that the torsion axle's mounting pad is only about a foot in width, at most. This places the load strain on a much smaller area of the frame, which can be a problem for frames that weren't meant to handle these kinds of stresses. Secondly, multiple torsion axles can't share a load the way that a set of conventional solid axles do. That means that the axle, which first encounters a bump, will have to cope with much more strain than an axle on a conventional setup would. And finally, while the elastomer rubber may give you as many work cycles as metal without wearing out, it will harden and crack over time. This means that you can measure the rubber's life in years rather than miles.

This is from how it works site.
I have seen these once before. and I am not the type to just fly across a open field I will think about it.
Thanks

[Ron Dickey]

I have about 8000 miles on my harbor freight frame. When you get it, clean the bearings completely, and repack with grease. I carry a spare hub with me that I bought on ebay, so if I have a bearing issue, I can just replace the entire hub and not fight with bearings on the side of the road. Harbor Freight frames are fine!

I also have a 1974 harbor freight trailer that I towed well over 10,000 miles, and never needed to replace bearing in it.

Good luck with your build.

This is the type of information I need to hear. I was thinking of getting totally new hubs buy a different manufacturer. I have a neighbor who has a grease loader I can use. I remember hearing of some guy who got one with no grease in it at all.

Thanks Ron

[GPW]

My HF trailer turned PINK !!!

[les45]

I have about 8000 miles on my harbor freight frame. When you get it, clean the bearings completely, and repack with grease. I carry a spare hub with me that I bought on ebay, so if I have a bearing issue, I can just replace the entire hub and not fight with bearings on the side of the road. Harbor Freight frames are fine!

I also have a 1974 harbor freight trailer that I towed well over 10,000 miles, and never needed to replace bearing in it.

Good luck with your build.

My experience is the same as parnold. I have an older HF that has served me well with no problems. I built my TD on a Northern Tool trailer which is essentially the same as HF. Main thing at this stage is to repack the bearings with good quality grease. I did a lot of research on bearing grease and decided on "Red and Tacky" as it is favored by most boat trailer owners. I also carry a spare hub assembly along with a spare tire in my TV. Also think ahead to the tools you will need for any situation you might run into on the road and have an emergency tool kit. HF lug bolts are notorious for coming loose so check them every time you use the trailer. They take 90 ft-lbs which is pretty high. Also check air pressure every time. Mine also turned pink where I didn't keep it covered (mostly on the tongue). A little Rustoleum Safety Red spray paint took care of that problem.

[GPW]

Les, Thanks , I’ll get some of that Safety Red paint !!!

[jeffmutch]

I agree that HF frames are worth the price, probably more. But with about 15,000 miles on mine, It's been less than problem free...

Cracked frame in the tounge driving down a rough freeway

leaf spring eventually broke and needed to be replaced

had to re-weld a couple of weak points near the coupler

My lights were flickering for a long time due to poor ground I beleive is a result of the folding tounge bouncing around.

I added a 3/16th 2x2 by 8 foot steel beam to support the tounge and wired the grounds independently all the way back to the tow vehicle.

Surprisingly, when I replaced the leaf springs, Id assume that my bearings would need replacing, but they were in great shape!

I ended up buying a whole new trailer just to use for spare parts. If I ever start over, I will probably spend the money on a heavier-duty frame. Keep in mind, My camper is pushing the weight limits at over 1200 pounds, and its been halfway across the country several times including some offroading.

[les45]

I agree that HF frames are worth the price, probably more. But with about 15,000 miles on mine, It's been less than problem free...

Cracked frame in the tounge driving down a rough freeway

leaf spring eventually broke and needed to be replaced

had to re-weld a couple of weak points near the coupler

My lights were flickering for a long time due to poor ground I beleive is a result of the folding tounge bouncing around.

I added a 3/16th 2x2 by 8 foot steel beam to support the tounge and wired the grounds independently all the way back to the tow vehicle.

Surprisingly, when I replaced the leaf springs, Id assume that my bearings would need replacing, but they were in great shape!

I ended up buying a whole new trailer just to use for spare parts. If I ever start over, I will probably spend the money on a heavier-duty frame. Keep in mind, My camper is pushing the weight limits at over 1200 pounds, and its been halfway across the country several times including some offroading.

If I recall, the GVW on the folding trailer is only about 1,200 lbs so you've done good to get that much use with that much load. For my TD, I stepped up to the 5X8 NT trailer with a GVW of 2,000. My final weight is about 1,200 also so I've got plenty of safety factor. Everyone bad mouths those Chinese bearings, but if they are packed properly and not overloaded, they will last a lifetime. If you look around, they are the same ones being sold as aftermarkets at most boat and auto parts stores.

[Woodbutcher]

I have the #1750 LB HF trailer. I did move the axle forward 6". I also extended the tongue to make room for a tongue box. I did repack all the bearings before leaving on the first trip, and I carry a spare set of bearings in the trailer. I have heard some negatives on their tires. I also carry a spare in case what I have read about is true. To me, you can not beat a HF trailer for the money.

[LDK]

My HF trailer turned PINK !!!

They do turn pink don't they.

[pete42]

Ron I sense that you can build a trailer and since you like the HF trailers
which seem just right for building a tear drop on, I say go for it.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I've had good experience with the HF trailers. I had no welding done on mine. Just bolted it together. Like Paul said, clean the bearings and hubs, and use quality wheel bearing grease.

Also, you might consider extending the tongue using a piece of 2x2 tube steel. This makes backing up easier, the trailer seems to track better down the road, and it also reinforces the tongue.