If foam alone is good enough for walls..

[razzer]

I'm enjoying the reading about the big thrifty thread , but I've read a few of the build threads and looked at the pictures and those seem to condense the information done to a much quicker read . Eaglesdare build was very helpful and so was the pictures from aksnowryder gallery gallery/album.php?album_id=2501 even though he fiberglassed his and I don't want to do that . " It looks great "

[eaglesdare]

aww, thank you razzer.

[atahoekid]

Hey Irving sorry to chime in kinda late to this discussion but I'm coming off of a two week vacation with my wife. I built mine with two inch foam all around, a fiberglass exterior skin and 5mm lauan ply on the interior. plenty strong! Plenty warm! I could have gone with the canvas skin too and been satisfied. It is very strong and I have no fear of it breaking apart or anything like that. I did strengthen the roof panel with spars but the "sock" as its called is really the strength of the build. It took some convincing but once I was sold, I am really convinced that this is the way to build. Essentially you're building a composite panel structure Have faith, Read On! Welcome to the Foamies !

[Irving]

Hey Irving sorry to chime in kinda late to this discussion but I'm coming off of a two week vacation with my wife. I built mine with two inch foam all around, a fiberglass exterior skin and 5mm lauan ply on the interior. plenty strong! Plenty warm! I could have gone with the canvas skin too and been satisfied. It is very strong and I have no fear of it breaking apart or anything like that. I did strengthen the roof panel with spars but the "sock" as its called is really the strength of the build. It took some convincing but once I was sold, I am really convinced that this is the way to build. Essentially you're building a composite panel structure Have faith, Read On! Welcome to the Foamies !

I think I will essentially be making a combination of a foamie and solid build. I'm planning on using 1.5" foam for all walls and 11/32" ply on the outside and likely this 1/8" stuff called "tempered hardboard" on the inside.

[Irving]

While at the home depot picking up 2x2s and 2x3s and plywood for my flooring, I noticed this product that I hadn't yet thought of to use as an exterior finish over my tightbond/canvas. Has this product been discussed on here or used by anybody?

[Wolffarmer]

Irving. I have not seen that product before. One part epoxy? What do they mean by that? Is there a reaction with something in the air to make it cure? Only epoxy I know about are 2 parts, which kind of defines the material. But I would be interested in the stuff. I painted the sides of mine 2 years ago with Sherwin Williams floor paint. Took a very very very long time to fully cure. The stuff was nice and thick and looks like it is good stuff. Except for some cracks that is developing in it. Don't know what I am going to do about those at the moment. This was applied over epoxy covered wood. I had originally put spar varnish on it but the wood got real ugly so I sanded it down to the epoxy, and probably a few places to the wood and painted it.

But back to your paint. I would not fear using it. This whole thing is one live in experiment that does not end. Sort of like the internet.

Randy

[mezmo]

From memory of points in the Big Thread:

I believe the TBII is the preferred glue as it is nominally less
expensive [usually] and it will stick to itself. TBIII is not able
to, or doesn't stick well to itself and is generally more expensive.
Supposedly, the difference in their water proofing abilities aren't
really all that great - double check all that - but I believe that is
what was stated in the Big Thread about them.

I don't see the reason why you want to use "the mixture" on the
glued on fabric. It is my understanding that "the mixture" is used
more for waterproofing wood/wooden components, and there may
be some question as to what will adhere to such treated wood - I
don't have any experience with that, but I'm pretty sure that was one
concern raised. Perhaps in your continued reading of it you will find
that out.

Is there any specific reason reason for the 11/32 plywood? Availability ?
1/4inch would probably be just as good. The biggest factor with it, I think,
is to get the best quality you can afford and ensure you keep it from
warping when stored before use. Make sure it has at least three equal
ply thicknesses too at least.

[bonnie]

While at the home depot picking up 2x2s and 2x3s and plywood for my flooring, I noticed this product that I hadn't yet thought of to use as an exterior finish over my tightbond/canvas. Has this product been discussed on here or used by anybody?

I used that in a fiberglass trailer I owned. Prepped the floor and let it cure for a very long time. It was beautiful, but it cracked over the first winter. It never did go camping. I don't know if sealing it after the painting and chips would have helped. Wasn't hard to do and came out very pretty, though. Operator error is always a possibility, but I think the floor flexed too much for the paint type.

[Irving]

Is there any specific reason reason for the 11/32 plywood? Availability ?
1/4inch would probably be just as good. The biggest factor with it, I think,
is to get the best quality you can afford and ensure you keep it from
warping when stored before use. Make sure it has at least three equal
ply thicknesses too at least.

I think that I just want something slightly more substantial for the outer walls.. I'm using 1/8" fiberboard on the inside for sure. And most likely 1/4" plywood for the roof.

I've noticed the occasional bear talk on here.. haha And I think that part of my desire for this camper trailer is to have more peace of mind and safety that a tent does not always provide. So I will be using a minimum of 11/32" ply on the outer walls.

[KCStudly]

Only thing going to stop a big brown bear for real is .357 mag or larger.

Electric fence, spray, noise, stinky smelling pots, etc. are all just deterrents. A little bit of splinters and foam are just wishful thinking.

22 cal just piss them off.

I'm not saying that all of these things are not good attempts, just that you are fooling yourself if you think going a little heavier on the ply will make a difference, bear-wise.

Call me old fashion... I learned from my dad, a true mountain man. (Then again, he never met a bear face to face, as far as I know.)

Just saying. Have you ever seen a bear being fed at the zoo? Polar bear ripped right through a 55 gal plastic drum to get to that salmon.

11/32 ply? No contest!

[GPW]

Hmmm??? bear -proof ... 1/2” steel plate for the outer skins , then the foam ... a bit HEAVY , but that MIGHT work ...

[Wolffarmer]

Just punch a bear as hard as you can in the nose.

They do not like that.

Randy

[Irving]

haha Oh you're right that slightly thicker ply probably won't do much. I was just looking back and forth between 1/4", 11/32" and the 11/32" seemed substantially thicker to make me feel like it would offer slightly more protection. 1/4" just seems too flimsy for my instincts to go with, however irrational they may be. And I've already got the .357 covered.

[razzer]

Your best bet for keeping a bear away is putting what what many campers call smell-ables " stuff that smells like food " in a bear bag on a rope and pulling it up out of reach of bears . Remember some cleaners , soaps and shampoos smell like food to animals . Something to remember when buying that all natural stuff made from amazing real extract stuff for your camping trip . I think some campsites have steel cages to store food at night .

[GPW]

Just sayin’ ... I hear tell Bear steaks are pretty tasty ... ...