Teardrop building safety tip

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Teardrop building safety tip

Postby citylights » Sat Oct 19, 2013 11:22 pm

I haven't seen anyone post something like this, it is a lesson I learned the hard way...

I got used to pushing my utility trailer and partially built tear in and out of the garage. It was lightweight and easy to move around by hand. In nice weather, I work on it in the driveway. In bad weather I work on it in the garage.

I hadn't moved my tear out of the garage in a few weeks as I was building it. 3/4 inch thk deck, 3/4 inch sidewalks, bedroom and galley cabinets, countertop, wiring, battery, microwave, air conditioner..., 100's of pounds of materials went on piece by piece. Can you guess where this story is going?

Last weekend the weather was nice, so I went to pull my tear out of the garage into the driveway to work on it... but when the back wheels hit the driveway slope it pushed me all the way down the driveway and into the street! No sh**, I am a strong guy, but I couldn't stop it! My hiking shoes shoes slid on the concrete about 12 inches as I leaned into it and tried to stop it before I decided I had better walk it down under some semblance of control. Damn lucky it didn't run me over!

My driveway is kind of steep. And I guess my tear is kind of heavy. When I finish it, I really need to weigh it.

Wheels chalked now. No more moving the tear without it hooked up to the tow vehicle. They start light, but they end up heavy.
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby working on it » Sun Oct 20, 2013 12:11 am

Same problem here. There was no problem to manhandle the trailer when it was just shell. But now, much different. My trailer weighs in at 1280lbs without consumables packed, 1438lbs with. My driveway slopes up from the trailer's garage bay at about 8-10 degrees. No problem pulling it out with the truck, but to turn it around and back it in, that's another story. The driveway layout makes me drive it in forward about 110 feet, take a 90 degree turn , then drive forward and turn right about 45 degrees another 30 feet on. From there, I unhook the trailer, use the foot pad on the jack to dig into the sand, and swing it around by hand another 90 degrees, back the truck out to the street, turn it around, then back it all the way in, and re-hook the trailer. Then the truck is used to maneuver it into the garage (another 20 feet at a 45 degree angle). I tried it once, all the way by hand...fortunately I was able to stop the runaway trailer by forcing the jack pad to dig in about 8" into the sandy drive. I've got to come up with a better method; either way I've tried, the trailer calls all the shots, and is a backbreaker to turn on the sand.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
173193172890148599
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby Gage » Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:51 am

A little common sense would have prevented that. Something a lot of first time builders don’t seem to have or even know what it is. :o
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby citylights » Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:26 am

Gage wrote:A little common sense would have prevented that. Something a lot of first time builders don’t seem to have or even know what it is. :o


Common sense tells you when the trailer tips over into the too heavy for hand moving range? My common sense didn't come with a digital weight readout, so I guess I am a little short of that. I did share this to try and help anyone else who might not be familiar with the weight adding up.
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby working on it » Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:43 am

Gage wrote:A little common sense would have prevented that. Something a lot of first time builders don’t seem to have or even know what it is. :o
You're so wise! Not, very diplomatic though. I knew moving it would be difficult, but I accept all challenges. Common sense doesn't figure in to the equation...assuming infallibility overrules it. As you probably know.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
173193172890148599
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby halfdome, Danny » Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:47 am

When I've pulled a teardrop, I've been building, out of my shop & into my downhill slanted driveway, I place 2 x 4's in various spots to catch the wheels, this prevents a runaway.
When I push it back into the shop, I level it out with the tongue wheel and then go a bit more so I'm not pushing all the weight, uphill, by myself.
You've got to take care of yourself as no one else will.
:D Danny
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby S. Heisley » Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:28 am

halfdome, Danny wrote:When I've pulled a teardrop, I've been building, out of my shop & into my downhill slanted driveway, I place 2 x 4's in various spots to catch the wheels, this prevents a runaway.
When I push it back into the shop, I level it out with the tongue wheel and then go a bit more so I'm not pushing all the weight, uphill, by myself.
You've got to take care of yourself as no one else will.
:D Danny
Gage wrote:A little common sense would have prevented that. Something a lot of first time builders don’t seem to have or even know what it is. :o


Danny had a correct answer to Gage's comment. Gage was trying to get you to think: "How could I have prevented that problem?" Gaslight brought up an important point. By admitting his "assumption" that his trailer was still light enough to handle without any "assisting tools", he brought up a problem that was meant to help others think before they act. We all make mistakes. The key is to try to think ahead so that there are less accidents. Both Danny and Gage have built more than a few trailers and their knowledge is very welcome by others. The point that they were wisely making was, before you do anything, think a few steps ahead; and, like a true boy or girl scout, be prepared. :D

I have a wheely jack on my tongue; and, with the spare tire laid flat, attached on the tongue, I usually lay a wheel chock on that tire so I can slip it under the wheel of the jack; but, Danny's idea of 2x4's strategically placed, as well as or instead of, is probably much better. I would not have thought to raise the tongue jack, to push some of the weight away from the tongue, when pushing the trailer up a sloping driveway. Sharing knowledge is what this forum is all about. Thanks, guys! :yes:
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby Larry C » Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:44 am

working on it wrote:Same problem here. There was no problem to manhandle the trailer when it was just shell. But now, much different. My trailer weighs in at 1280lbs without consumables packed, 1438lbs with. My driveway slopes up from the trailer's garage bay at about 8-10 degrees. No problem pulling it out with the truck, but to turn it around and back it in, that's another story. The driveway layout makes me drive it in forward about 110 feet, take a 90 degree turn , then drive forward and turn right about 45 degrees another 30 feet on. From there, I unhook the trailer, use the foot pad on the jack to dig into the sand, and swing it around by hand another 90 degrees, back the truck out to the street, turn it around, then back it all the way in, and re-hook the trailer. Then the truck is used to maneuver it into the garage (another 20 feet at a 45 degree angle). I tried it once, all the way by hand...fortunately I was able to stop the runaway trailer by forcing the jack pad to dig in about 8" into the sandy drive. I've got to come up with a better method; either way I've tried, the trailer calls all the shots, and is a backbreaker to turn on the sand.


I had a similar uphill driveway situation to back my former pop-up trailer. I bought a
2" FRONT receiver hitch that bolted to the frame of the 1992 Chevy PU I once had. What a difference!! I could put the trailer anywhere with ease. It also worked great spotting the trailer in tight campsites that I would normally by-pass.

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Actually I still have the FRONT receiver hitch which I would sell cheap if anyone can use it. I get great shipping rates from my work place. This will directly bolt on (no drilling) 1988-2008 full size Chevy pickups. With mods, maybe a lot more. I know it's the wrong place for a "for sale" posting, but it does fit the theme of the thread and may help someone. Please PM me if interested.

Larry C
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http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=35852
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby Gage » Sun Oct 20, 2013 4:53 pm

halfdome, Danny wrote:When I've pulled a teardrop, I've been building, out of my shop & into my downhill slanted driveway, I place 2 x 4's in various spots to catch the wheels, this prevents a runaway.
:D Danny

I do the same but use wheel chocks instead of 2x4’s and then use a come-along to get it back in the garage (my teardrop weights 1400 lbs). And for you two that got upset with my posting, look at it this way, I could have said ‘That was Stupid’, but I didn’t.
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby citylights » Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:16 pm

Gage wrote:
halfdome, Danny wrote:[color=#4000FF]And for you two that got upset with my posting, look at it this way, I could have said ‘That was Stupid’, but I didn’t.


If someone learns from your sarcasm or from my stupid move story, I just hope they don't make the same mistake I did. It could have been a down right crushing bloody mess instead of a near miss.

Besides, you couldn't get me down right now, 15 minutes after my teardrop pushed me down the driveway, a guy in a classic car stops in front of my house to talk to me. I am proud to show my tear off and we go around checking it out. A few minutes later, he asks to buy it! When I tell him that it is a one of a kind for my family and not for sale, he asks me to build him another one just like it! He offered some good $$$ too, cash. He wants one to go with his classic car when he takes it to car shows. How is that for a compliment?! He wants my Tear to go with his cherry sweet classic car.

I gave him this website address and told him that they occasionally come up for sale.
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby citylights » Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:21 pm

Gage wrote:I do the same but use wheel chocks instead of 2x4’s and then use a come-along to get it back in the garage


Now that is a mighty fine suggestion. Come along might be a little easier than connecting it to the tow vehicle every time. At least it is another option.
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby working on it » Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:24 pm

Gage-Thank you for not saying that...I might've not understood your good intent. In many of my posts, I try to show why some things work right for me, and others don't (experience gained through experiment and analysis). As I stated in my first post on this thread, it got the better of me on the first try...but only momentarily, before I forced the square skid plate into the sand. I had anticipated that happening, but the speed at which it occurred was surprising. That was stupid. But I knew better than to try to roll it in backwards, so I didn't install the wheel on the jack. That was not stupid. I chanced the momentary runaway, just to see what I needed to do in order to avoid it the next time. The procedure I use now is the multi-step I outlined. Just common sense.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
173193172890148599
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby celticquetzel » Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:22 pm

Thanks all for the reminder
Had a delivery truck park behind my car yesterday and forget the parking break. He jumped back in and averted a close call. My car would have barely stopped him from potentially hitting the neighbor kids playing outside. This is serious stuff and so easy to forget. But it just takes once to be a disaster. One of the reasons I enjoy this forum in my planning stage are topics like this. Makes me think, and I learn new stuff daily. Thanks.
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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby atahoekid » Mon Oct 21, 2013 12:03 am

Gage wrote:I could have said ‘That was Stupid’, but I didn’t.[/i][/b]


No but you were pretty damn close....
Mel

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Re: Teardrop building safety tip

Postby Kody » Mon Oct 21, 2013 12:40 am

I guess I must be spoilt. I am building our T/D in the garage and when I want to move it outside, I simply back the car up to it, connect the trailer to the tow ball and then drive out to where I want to work on it. When it's time to come back inside, I simply drive in a circle thru the trees and drive back into the garage facing the same way as I came out. I have a roller door at each corner of the garage so I can drive straight thru from either direction. There is also a roller door at the end if I need to back the T/D down the middle of the garage for some specialized technical adjustments if needed. It's wonderful to have a well laid out garage where access in never a problem but it's a great blessing to have lots of acres to drive around on to be able to utilize the garage as designed. I am so very thankful for what we have.

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