What did you use to cover gap between hatch and top?

[KZ76017]

I'm almost done with my Teardrop and I need to know what people are using to cover any gap they may have between the top of the hatch and the top of the teardrop. I need to cover a 2" gap so I will probably need it to be at least 4" wide and about 72" long so I can lap it over the sides. and it will have to be flexible of course!
Any or all suggestions will be helpful.
I have put pictures on the bottom pictures on the build journal.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/sets/138594/
Thanks,
KZ76017

[doug hodder]

Am I correct in assuming you didn't use a hurricane hinge? I know that Will Smith used a gasket from a garage door bottom seal on his...Give him an e-mail to find out the specifics... I think he may be out of town however....back in 1980 when I was reworking my 49 Kit I used material from a fish pond liner.....Doug

[KZ76017]

Check out my build journal, I built the hatch with the piano hinge and then when I put on the roof I put the last cross-spar as close as I could with the hatch in the up position. So that leaves me about a 2" gap when the hatch is closed.
I have put pictures on the bottom pictures on the build journal.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/sets/138594/

Thanks
KZ76017

[doug hodder]

sorry, I didn't check out your build journal...Whatever material you use to seal that area....make sure you get what is most UV resistant....Will has had good luck with his...I had good luck with what I did...I know it held up for at least 10 years, and then I sold the tear....I don't know what, if anything he did different...that was 25 years ago different materials now....Doug

[Kevin A]

I'm almost done with my Teardrop and I need to know what people are using to cover any gap they may have between the top of the hatch and the top of the teardrop. I need to cover a 2" gap so I will probably need it to be at least 4" wide and about 72" long so I can lap it over the sides. and it will have to be flexible of course!
Any or all suggestions will be helpful.
Thanks,
KZ76017

KZ,
Here's a link to your photo of what appears to be the way you mounted your galley hinge.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/15636829/in/set-138594/
That's a unique method for installing the galley hatch hinge. However, most trailers have the hinge mounted so that one half is fastened to the roof of the trailer and the other half attaches to the hatch so that the gap you are having problems with is non existant. In your case where you are using a piano hinge, after relocating the body side of your hinge to the roof rather than on the stringer under the hatch, you could use a strip of rubber or a similar material either under the hinge or over it to seal it from water leaks.

[KZ76017]

These are the finished pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/34715628/in/set-138594/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/34715630/in/set-138594/

You are correct when you say
"you could use a strip of rubber or a similar material either under the hinge or over it to seal it from water leaks."

I need to find the rubber products to place over it and I'm wondering if any one else has any ideas of where to get it!

[lmh222]

I saw a teardrop that used something that I think would work for you. I wish that I had taken a picture of it. I'll try to do my best to explain it. They ran a long stripe of rubber over the hinge. Then, they used two pieces of aluminum (probably about 1" wide 1/8" thick and 4'long) to secure the rubber to the teardrop (lots of screws - probably spaced about 3" apart). Here is a very rough sketch of what I mean:







~Lindsey

[madjack]

...hmmmmmmmm, lets see, maybe goto a commercial roofing concern and get a piece of rubber roofing membrane(much better than an inner tube) and attach it the way lmh222 shows in the diagram
madjack

[Gage]

These are the finished pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/34715628/in/set-138594/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/34715630/in/set-138594/
You are correct when you say
"you could use a strip of rubber or a similar material either under the hinge or over it to seal it from water leaks."
I need to find the rubber products to place over it and I'm wondering if any one else has any ideas of where to get it!

Yep, those are the same two pictures I've been looking at for the last hour. I've got to say, you've come up with a first. Do you have any pictures of how the hinge is attached? Either with the hatch opened or closed.

Pluging the hole is one thing, but I would think you would want to solve your problem in such a way that you won't have more problems down the road. No way should there be a 2" gap.

It looks to me you tried to hide the hinge. It can be done but not the way you did it. To fix it, your going to have to add a piece to the forward end of you hatch (thickness of hatch x 1 3/4"). Then with the hatch in place on the tear, you should have 1/4" gap. Take your piano hinge, close it and slide it in place and then add screws. That way, you'll only see the wire edge of the hinge when the hatch is closed (the same as my doors on my tear). Then add rubber per Lindsey's sketch. Or what else you can do, is attached the hatch to the tear the same way you did your door.

Have a good day.

[Marck]

Wow that is a bit of a problem.

I used a piece of rubber cove moulding to cover my piano hinge on my six pack.
It's kind of funny looking, but it works.

[IraRat]

Glad to jump into this discussion, as my own hatch nightmare will continue Saturday.

I bought a bicycle inner tube from WalMart, slit it down the middle, and will trim it down to be WIDER than the hinge when laid flat. (I might not trim it at all now, because I figure I can always trim it flush later).

Next step is to adhere one half of it to the roof using that 3M 5200 Marine Sealant I've been using, letting the rest of it dangle.

Now I'll attach the hinge to the roof only, with the center pin hanging just a hair over the edge of the hatch spar. I'll then place the hatch in position, attach the other end of the hinge to the hatch in like just 3 places, and open and close for correctness. I'll then unscrew the hinge from the hatch, lay and seal the other half of the rubber on the hatch as I did to the roof, and then reattach the hinge to the hatch.

I'll then say a few Hail Marys.

Does this sound like it's CLOSE to the way I should do it? I haven't intended to COVER the hinge with rubber. The rubber is just to help seal the gap.

[KZ76017]

Here's my solution to the gap in the roof/hatch. Now I just need to make it adjustable when the hatch is open to compensate for the part that bunches up. I used the rubber that is placed in the grooves of the bottom of the garage door. It's the only thing I could find that was thick enough not to tear and long enough to go across the entire width of the teardrop. Then I clamped it down with the trim I'm using. Not the perfect solution but it will do until I can find some of that rubber roofing membrane that Madjack mentioned. And if it needs replacing, it's only $7 bucks.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/36986303/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/36986304/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twisted76017/36986305/in/photostream/

[doug hodder]

KZ76017...that should work...I know that Will Smith used the same material on his tear and it has worked out great for him....Doug

[Cutterpup]

I have some left over 18 oz vinyl reenforced nylon material trade name Herculite. I used it for marine applications that go way out to sea and it has to perform well. It will be just perfect for placing over a hinge for the galley or the doors. I only have it in black and will cut a piece for anybody for the cost of shipping it. Or if you are in the neighborhood stop in. If you have a canvas shop near you they might have some or they can order it wholesale price is about $8 to $10 per yard and it comes 60 inches wide and comes in about ten colours.

Dan